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J.D. 3010 Carbeurator Problems

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David J. Brown

11-26-1999 12:20:17




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I'm having problems with my J.D. 3010 Gas tractor. I have had it tuned up three times in the last 2 years and it never seems to run smoothly. It appears to run too rich. I've been told that there have been carbeurator problems with this model. I believe that I have a Zenith Carbeurator. Right now its sitting in the barn with a dead battery as I flooded it this morning trying to get it started. Help!!! Any ideas?

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Jenelle Anderson

08-18-2000 18:44:27




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 Re: J.D. 3010 Carbeurator Problems in reply to David J. Brown, 11-26-1999 12:20:17  
I too have a carb problem that occured this week, but on a PLYMOUTH ACCLAIM (1991).

There's a round spool lying sideways like a lathe that has 2 cables attached: one directly from the accelerator; the other...I dunno.

But this spool, with a maybe 1/8 inch gauge wire spring on it, sticks. If it sticks when the accelerator is at 80 MPH (or 3700? 4500? rpm...ooooeeee). I first noticed trouble 3 days ago when starting out in the morning...the car just kept accelerating: 25, 30,35...and the motor then was under power WITHOUT my foot on the pedal. Ouch. If I put it in neutral, the RPMs went way up...maybe 2000. But TODAY, it was sticking -- at a LOW speed going up a hill. My "tap" on the accelerator did nothing...in fact it felt frozen, but when I hit that pedal hard, it got stuck UP in the HIGH rpm range.

Having taken it apart, this 1 inch diameter thing the side of a spool of thread (2 pieces of plastic that seat inside one another and over a spindle in the carbeurator. What is sticking? The spindle? I think so.

Is this salvageable, do I need a whole new carbeurator or????

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Gerald J.

11-28-1999 06:59:20




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 Re: J.D. 3010 Carbeurator Problems in reply to David J. Brown, 11-26-1999 12:20:17  
First thing go replace the float needle and seat. Use JD parts, they aren't cheap but they fit and work. That's the most common problem with running rich. That was the main problem in the Zenith on the 4020 I bought last year. But it had multiple problems. The outside of the choke wire was not anchored near the carburetor so it would only open the choke half way. There was junk in the air intake line and in the intake manifold. Remember that any air intake restrictions make it run richer. That includes the top of the Donaldson precleaner. Its top must dome UP, not down as squashed by being tightened too much. The timing was retarded 20 degrees from where it should have been, the plugs were for LP, and two plug wires were not touching the plugs, all were carbon and the coil to distributor wire was opening intermittently.

At cooler temperatures (under 70 or higher) the engine wants the carburetor heat block set for heat, that's in the owner's manual. I'm thinking that's at a higher temperature.

I asked the gas engine expert at the local JD dealer about the 4020 running rich. He said he had tricks but wouldn't talk to me further until I had replaced the float needle and seat (which I had in a sack in my hand when I asked).

With copper wires and some good AC plugs of the right heat range and the right ignition timing (though a badly worn distributor to stick advanced and to time other cylinders randomly is a distinct possibility yet) my 4020 runs with a clear exhaust, requires choking to start even in the Iowa summer time. It still smokes black when goosed after idling a few minutes. I presume the accelerator pump is worn causing it to supply extra fuel. By needing choking for starting, I figure I'm close to optimum and just use it.

The JD owner's manual has a good section on carburetor adjustments and ignition timing.

Gerald J.

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Chuck

11-26-1999 12:52:25




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 Re: J.D. 3010 Carbeurator Problems in reply to David J. Brown, 11-26-1999 12:20:17  
I would consult with Robert Beaver at Robert's Carburator is in the Green Magazine or on the web. You may have ignition problems also...be patient and work out your problems....



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