Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
:

4010 electrical question

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Keith T

03-21-2006 15:03:56




Report to Moderator

Just got a 4010 diesel and was planning on using it on a new Holland round baler with electric tie .The 4010 is still on 24 volt .My question is where do you pick up 12 volts .Can a guy just clamp the posts on the right side battery .Help please as I don't want to burn up the motor on the baler.Maybe better beg ,borrow ,or steal a volt meter HUH.




[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
gwece

03-22-2006 19:29:53




Report to Moderator
 Re: 4010 electrical question in reply to Keith T, 03-21-2006 15:03:56  
Keith:

I have a NH 850 (5 1/2 x 6 foot bales) electric tie baler I use on my 4010 (24 volt). Here is how mine is hooked up. I just have spade connectors on the ends of the feed wires on my electric tie controller. I unplug the rear outlet socket (the one for accessories) on the rear of the tractor and plug one wire from the controller into the spade connector on the outlet socket feed wire (white #23). I ran a short piece of wire to ground (to the piece of metal- about 1/4 inch thick- that the outlet socket is attached to) and put a spade connector on it and plugged it into the other feed wire for the controller.

That white #23 wire feeds directly from the top starter solenoid post and is fused. This has always worked ok for me. I have the same setup on a 4020 and can switch the controller in just a few minutes.

If you don't have a wiring diagram for your 4010, you can go to my website and get both the one from the factory manual and one I made by tracing the circuits of my 4010D 24 volt.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Keith T

03-22-2006 06:36:59




Report to Moderator
 Re: 4010 electrical question in reply to Keith T, 03-21-2006 15:03:56  
This is a mod.638 4x4 baler with out all the monitor and other bells and whistles that bigger balers have .All it has is a 12v. electric motor that swings an arm across the width of the bale to distribute twine



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Glen in TX

03-21-2006 18:24:07




Report to Moderator
 Re: 4010 electrical question in reply to Keith T, 03-21-2006 15:03:56  
Keith, Is it just 12V needed for that sensor pickup and buzzer or light box on the baler? I don't remember a big load needed for just that and coming off one battery should be fine as that thing shouldn't pull too much load. If you do that way I would still put a switch and fuse on it. I've pulled loads off one battery on those 6x6 military trucks with 24V for 12V and it will pull one battery down too and we just put a small battery maintainer on it when truck is parked to charge back the one low battery and it was fine. If it is something pulling more load and you can't park by the 110V later to hook up a battery charger it might not work well. Never had a problem with backfeeding from ground and needing a seperate ground for the 12V. Just fuse everthing. I don't remember what all sensors or switches are in those New Holland boxes now but 24V buzzers and lights are also available from truck parts places. Something else to consider if you want more 12V accessories in the future on it is to ask you local alternator/starter rebuild shop about a larger Delco alternator that a diode setup can be put on and it can put out 24V and 12V. Those work well and then can use another 12V battery mounted someplace for the 12V accessories. Kind of hard to find room for that on a tractor I know but it works well on a 6x6 truck.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
jdemaris

03-21-2006 17:47:26




Report to Moderator
 Re: 4010 electrical question in reply to Keith T, 03-21-2006 15:03:56  
I'm just gonna' add a little bit to what John T. already said. I went to too many service schools at Deere in Sryacuse, NY after they hired AC Delco to create that awful 12-12-24 system. At that time, some of the Deere instructors were a bit confused on how to tap in for a 12 volt source. I still don't understand why anyone created that system. A straight 24 volt system would have been fine and made a lot more sense. But most of the Deere systems used in the 10 and 20 series have 24 V cranking, and 1/2 the operating system 12 volt neg. ground, and the other half 12 volt postive ground. Anyway, the system - if still original with a generator and mechanical regulator, will not charge properly unless the balance is maintained on both halves of the system (12V+ gnd and 12V-gnd). So, what we were told to do - if anything is tapped off of one battery, you must tap an equal amount from the other. We did it with resistors. We had some serious problems with such tractors hooked to White corn planters that had electric blower motors on each row and drew 30 amps. Now, for your situation - if it's not long term use, it is probably not necessary to worry about balance. One battery will undercharge, and one will overcharge. For short-term use, it won't hurt anything. But, if you plan on something more permanent, then you do need to balance the draw and get it even on both sides. Many farmers would wire in aux. headlights to each side with separate switches, and turn the lights on or off ot balance loads.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
John T

03-21-2006 17:20:24




Report to Moderator
 Re: 4010 electrical question in reply to Keith T, 03-21-2006 15:03:56  
Keith, the ungrounded (NOT tied to frame) battery post on either battery would supply 12 volts with respect to frame ground. One battery (that has its - to frame) will supply 12 volts Neg ground while the other battery (that has its + to frame) would supply 12 volts Pos ground voltage. The center tie point where the 2 batteries are joined in series to make 24 volts is where they make that common frame ground connection.

Thereforeeeee eeeee ee if you need 12 volts you can get it by wiring to the hot outermost ungrounded battery post (from either battery) and frame ground..... ... HOWEVER if the baler requires 12 volts Negative ground (i.e. its motor and controls is polarity sensitive) and since its mounted to the tractor frame via the drawbar, you probably need to wire and feed it voltage ONLY from whichever battery that has its Negative post tied to frame ground i.e a Positive battery post.

Buttttt ttt if the baler is only fed from one battery all the time that can create a small imbalance, since the 24 volt charging system is charging both batteries the same current in series. In the event the baler wasnt polarity sensitive (which I doubt, I bet it needs 12 volts Neg ground) the ideal way to feed it would be to alternate its feed from the batteries one at a time so they get the same use and charge n stay more even, but thats likely impractical.

If I were gonna wire it up I would use a 30 amp or so circuit breaker right where its wired to the + 12 volt battery post take off point for short circuit and overload protection and run 10 gauge wire (but depends on baler amp requiremetns) to some sort of plug and receptacle arrangemnt on the tractor rear.

Maybe others have better ideas and 24 volts is NOT my thing so take this and other advice and figure out what to do. Again, its my assumption the baler needs 12 votls Neg ground and since its tied to the tractor frame via the drawbar, I think you MUST feed it with 12 volts Neg ground which is avaialble from the Pos battery terminal on the Neg grounded battery.

Clear as mud?????/

John T

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
4010guy

03-22-2006 06:57:35




Report to Moderator
 Re: 4010 electrical question in reply to John T, 03-21-2006 17:20:24  
keith I have 2 4010s out hear that i use for haying and i coverted both over to 12V ...just buy a 12V starter and hang a 12V alt. wear the 24 gen was..mine hangs on one side of C clamp and rewire witch is not to much and i have had very littel probloms sence...best thing i ever did as them 24 volts are just a pain in the butt.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy