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G/MAN
02-14-2006 07:33:56
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Re: To replace camlifters or not to...that is the in reply to 61-4010, 02-14-2006 03:31:15
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Bob is correct. It's usually acceptable to put a new lifter on an old camshaft lobe, but never acceptable to put old lifters on a new lobe. Most of the new cams I've installed have come with lifters. Are you sure they're not included with your new camshaft? If not, I'd look for a "kit" that has the camshaft and new lifters, as it will likely be cheaper than piecing them out. Also, you want to properly break in the camshaft. Use proper cam lobe lube on the lobes and lifter bases. Once you have the engine running (prelubing is a very good idea before startup), make sure everything seems to be okay and that there aren't any major leaks, and then get the engine throttled up some and off idle. Proper camshaft break-in requires good lifter rotation, and that usually means getting the engine spinning over at a good clip, not just putting along at 800 rpm. 1500-2000 rpm once it's ran for a few minutes won't hurt a thing. I'd also strongly recommend using Deere Break-In oil, and you'll want to work the tractor good and hard for several hours to seat the rings. A good regulated load on a PTO dyno is best. Once again, putting around isn't going to cut it, and that's pretty much a sure way to guarantee glazed cylinder walls and a poor ring seal, and oil consumption and poor performance out of your freshly overhauled engine. The reason I recommend the Deere Break-In oil is that most of the modern, high-quality diesel oils (Deere Plus-50, Shell Rotella, etc.) are getting so good at preventing wear that they'll prevent the necessary wear that lets and engine break itself in properly. We run Break-In oil for 100 hours on every new overhaul, change the oil and filter and run Break-In for another 100 hours. As far as your rods go, have them checked by a machine shop. At most all they'll likely need is the big ends resized and possibly new pin bushings. If the shop has Deere diesel experience, they'll likely update the rods for torque-turn rod bolts, if it hasn't been done previously. I think this involves honing the big ends slightly oversize, as the torque-turn rod bolts provide greating clamping load and change the fit between the bearing shell and rod.
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