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Mike is right. They had bypass starting. QUESTION..... On those rare occasions that it does start, does it happen to start just as you decided to STOP cranking? If yes, right there's a good clue the bypass is not working. You may also by now also have fouled plugs. As a test of the bypass circuit... First, I would roll the engine over until the points are open. I would then replace the spark plugs with new ones just to ensure they are NOT the problem. I would next place a jumper wire (a clip lead) from the battery's negative terminal (assuming you're still original positive ground) to the battery post on the coil. NOT the distributor side but the BATTERY post of the coil. Turn on the ignition switch and attempt to start the tractor. As soon as it starts, you must remove the jumper. Leaving it in place while it's running will usually cause misfires from arc over inside the distributor cap as well as overheating of the coil & burning of the points. If you give up becasue it has not started, you must remove the jumper. If you leave it in place but not running it is likely to drain your battery and maybe cook the coil & burn up the points. If it starts right up with the jumper but rarely if ever starts without the jumper it pretty nearly assures your hard starts are caused by a failure in the ignition system's bypass start circuit. There are many possible casues for this failure. One common one is the coil being replaced with a 6 volter (that's good) and a ballast resistor that has unfortunately been wired improperly (that's bad). The above will tell you if a failing bypass circuit is the cause of the hard starts. Run the test & post back your findings.
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