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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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60 charging problem?

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Keenum

09-05-2005 19:44:22




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I have a 60 JD that the amp gauge barely flickers at full throtle. When I pull the throtle back it shows a discharge of 7 to 10 amps. If I let it run at low throtle sometimes it will jump back to about 1 or 2 discharge. Is this normal or can it be fixed, or do I need to think about an alternator. If I go with an alternator what kind would be easiest to mount. (still positive ground with no power steering). Thanks

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Keenum

09-06-2005 19:35:08




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 Re: 60 charging problem? in reply to Keenum, 09-05-2005 19:44:22  
Thanks guys for the advice. I will try to put it to use tommorrow afternoon. Also like to say I've learned alot from reading the archives. Somethings I've been able to do myself, others I've decided are over my head. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and time.



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John T

09-05-2005 19:59:18




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 Re: 60 charging problem? in reply to Keenum, 09-05-2005 19:44:22  
Keenum, to save time I simply cut n pasted my standard generic troubleshooting guide for non charging. It may be more then you need but here it is:

1) For a good working Gen to get to and charge the battery, it has to have a path usually from the Gens ARM post output,,,,, ,,,,,to and through the cutout relay portion of the VR (between its ARM and BAT terminals),,,,, ,,,up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,to and through the ammeter,,,,, ,,,,from BAT side of ammeter to ungrounded battery post, often via the starter lug post. Is yours wired that way or equivalent ??? The ammeter should read hot battery voltage on BOTH terminals, does yours??? Even if an ammeter were stuck (but still continuous) as RPM increases the battery voltage should rise from 12.6 to near 14 volts and/or the lights glow brighter. Have you tried that in case the ammeter isnt working right????? ?

2) If the above is so, the BAT terminal on the VR MUST ALWAYS READ HOT BATTERY VOLTAGE. Does yours??? If not, the Gen cant get to and charge the battery.

3) The Gen to VR wiring is as follows:

BAT on VR to ammeters load (NOT battery) side

ARM (or GEN) on VR to Gens Armature post.

FLD on VR to Gens Field post.

(L) Load (if you have a 4 wire VR) up to BAT supply input terminal on switch to feed loads like lights and ingition.

4. THE GEN AND VR MUST BE WELL GROUNDED AND THE BELT GOOD N TIGHT. If any doubt, run a ground wire from the grounded battery post or clean solid frame member direct to the Gen and see what happens????? ????? ????? ????? ????

NOW, if the Gen and VR are grounded,,,,,all is wired correct,,,,, ,,BAT terminal on VR is HOT,,,,, ,,Belt is tight,,,,, ,,,ammeter is good n continuous n works but she wont charge, have you had the batteries tested lately????? Is there electrolyte above all the plates and no cells have a gray or milky appearance????? A bad battery may not accept a charge you know!!!!! !! If she dont, proceed below to see if its a Gen or VR problem (AFTER you have insured the wiring per the above)

TO DETERMINE IF ITS A GEN OR VR PROBLEM

5. With the tractor running, temporarily ground the Gens Field post to case. If she charges then, the VR may be bad, or a wires missing from VR's Field post to the Field terminal on the VR, or the VR isnt well grounded.

6. If she still dont charge, leave Field grounded and jump a wire across from the VR's BAT and ARM terminals (jump by passes the cutout relay) and see if she charges. If then but not otherwise, the VR's cutout relay isnt working correct (maybe points burned/carboned/resistive)

7. With the 2 steps above, you have basically by passed the VR functions, so if she still dont charge, you're left with a bad battery or wiring or the Gen itself.

8. MOTOR TEST. You can Motor test the Gen. If its grounded and you remove the belt and apply hot battery voltage direct to its ARM Post, it should motor n run well (Armature n Brushes and Commutator okay). Then if you ground the Field and it slows down some, the Fileds probably good. If it passes both those tests, it should charge, and if not, it may be a wirign or battery or grounding problem.

9. Typical Gen problems may be the brushes are worn down or the hold down spring assemblies are stuck/corroded/dirty and arent pushing the brushes tight down against the commutator. Chekc those things out. Worse may be bad fields or armature etc. Air and WD 40 etc can clean and free them, the hold downs must be free n snap and hold the brushes DOWN TIGHT.

SUMMARY: Check the wiring,,,,,the grounds,,,,, insure BAT on VR is hot,,,,, ,check battery (maybe load tested and Specific Gravity checked),,,,, ,,,good tight belt,,,,, ,insure ammeter is continuous (BOTH sides HOT),,,,, see if battery voltage rises above 12.6 and/or light glow brighter,,,,, ,,,do the Field and cutout relay VR by pass checks,,,,, ,,insure the Gens brushes arent worn down and the hold down springs are free n clean and push the brushes down tight,,,,, ,,,,,check the connections,,,,, ,,,try the Gen Motor Test to see if its good.

Good Luck n God Bless, let us all know.

John T Nordhoff in Indiana

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F-I-T

09-05-2005 19:56:24




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 Re: 60 charging problem? in reply to Keenum, 09-05-2005 19:44:22  
K:

John T will likely stop by, but in the mean time, let's see if we can get your generator operating properly, and then if you want to go to an alternator, you can, but why then?

First make sure the ammeter is hooked up correctly. Engine off, lights on, the ammeter should show discharge. If it shows plus, the ammeter is hooked up backwards, so swap those wires, and you might be charging.

Next, look on the generator body and you will see two terminals. One is marked "F" and it has a wire connected to the Voltage Regulator marked "F" or maybe "FLD". Take a clip lead and hook it to either the terminal or the wire at the stud, and hook the other end to ground. See ifg you generator charges at full output. If it charges, but not like 20 amps or so, check that the belt is tight, or maybe the brushes are worn.

If that solves the charging problem, inspect the field wire as it might be broken between the VR and the generator. If it is intact, suspect the VR. BTW, you can't run with that jumper lead on there for very long. At full output it's tough on the battery because it will over charge and tough on the generator because it could be overheat.


That's the quick and dirty short test.

Frank

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