JD D Timing

Thanks again
Brad D

1. Have the mag secure to engine mounting and need 1/32" clearance between mag drive and float coupling.

2. Loosen the 2 clamps on mag engine drive flange to allowing mag to turn freely.

3. Turn engine in direction it runs to compression stroke on LH cylinder (flywheel side) with mark on flywheel "L.H. Ret. Spk." in line with the arrow or mark on cover.

4. Remove breaker cover and dist. cap on mag.

5. Set spark lever clear back (fully retarded spark).

6. Turn magneto same direction as flywheel runs until brass segment on distributor disc is in upper right hand corner and breaker points are just beginning to open.

7. Tighten 2 bolts on mag drive flange.

8. Spark plug wire from forward mag terminal goes to LH spark plug and rear one to RH spark plug.

9. Then check the impulse trip by turning flywheel back 1/2 turn and if mag has manual impulse trip you will have to set it to trip. Then rotate engine slowly forward and impulse should trip or click as mark on flywheel lines up with mark on cover and LH spark plug should fire. If not loosen drive flange bolts and if trip is early turn magneto opposite direction engine runs. If late turn mag same direction as engine runs and recheck until you get mark to line up.

If that doesn't get you in time then you could have mag impulse problems or need to time the camshaft properly. Good luck.

Best of Luck,
Jon

Thanks again
Brad Duncan

Brad, you also want to make sure the tall spline groove in flyweel lines up with the pin on crankshaft. Also should be some V marks on clutch drive plate and crank to line those up.

The ES CD spec 0010 magneto does not provide a spark for each impulse click - it only provides a spark for the compression stroke of each cylinder. Wico magnetos, for example, provide a spark for each impulse click - that amounts to providing a spark on the exhaust stroke also. The ES series is click (spark), click (spark), click (nothing), click (nothing), and this cycle repeats itself. So, lay your spark plugs where you can see them spark, connect them to the magneto and rotate your magneto enough times that you can predict when the right hand terminal on the magneto is going to spark, followed by a spark from the left hand terminal. Then put your thumb over the flywheel side cylinder (#1) and determine the compression stroke - you will feel a rush of air as the piston moves forward. When you are at the top of the compression stroke (flywheel will have "LH Impulse" lined up with mark on transmission case), rotate the magneto drive cup such that it will produce a spark at the right hand terminal, put the magneto on the tractor and connect the right hand wire to the flywheel side plug. Then rotate the flywheel 1/2 turn more (bringing #2 piston up on compression) and you should see a spark at the pulley side. As a test, rotating through two more impulse clicks will produce no spark, then you should be back at piston #1 coming up on compression and the magneto ready to fire it. Once you confirm this operation, put the plugs back in the tractor and the magneto should be providing spark to the proper plug. At that point you can follow the instructions about rotating the magneto until it impulses when the mark on the flywheel aligns with the mark on the case.

Kind of a long explanation, but after you understand that 1) you don't get a spark every click, 2) the magneto produces a spark at the right hand terminal, then the left hand terminal, and 3) you must have a spark at #1 (flywheel side) on compression, followed by a spark at #2 (pulley side) on compression, you will get it figured out.

I figure since these magnetos were made during the depression, they conserved everything back then, including sparks.

Sincerely
Brad D

As for the dust shield it has oversized holes to allow lining it up. The flat side goes to front to clear pulley brake. Originally they used bolts with holes for wiring them and lead washers under the bolts to allow for alignment and to then hold it tight. Use a gasket or sealer under the shield and drilled bolts for safety wiring and lead or copper washers or good lock washers. Leave the bolts loose to allow it to move and align it by measuring the hole evenly from the crank or by putting the pulley on and aligning it and then tightening the bolts and wiring them.

I'm glad Duane got the Splitdorf explained. Good luck with it. Sounds like you're almost there.