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Joe -- Not knowing how "stuck" your valve is, I will be kind of general. I reckon I would begin by an application or two (or three even) of PB Blaster or Kroil -- allowing the application to make its way into the joint. A day or so later, clamp the shaft in a bench vise & use an open-end wrench to turn the body of the 3-way fuel cock. When you put the shaft stub into the vise, turn the assembly shaft s.t. the keyhole is parallel to the squeeze stress of the vise -- this to decrease the possibility of crushing the shaft! Apply heat briefly, then blow to cool -- then turn the body off the shaft. Once out, the finest of fine polishing compound to sort of "break" the glaze on the rotating part and inside the cylinder. Don't try to get fancy and apply power to the shaft to turn it real fast. The slightest burr will get lodged and cut a ring inside that jewel in a heartbeat. Some folks tend to use real fine valve-grinding compound. My take on that is you must be GENTLE. For some ideas of other folks out there, go to WWW.JDHPUBS.COM and on the left side, click on Fuel Valve -- there you will find some printable drawings of a modification made to the valve in one instance, and a substitution of an O-Ring for D2122R in yet another. See also an O-Ring modification for the AA499R Fuel Filter Assy. Your are right -- At $90 a pop, thos 3-way valves are worth a try at saving anyway. Good Luck - (PatB)
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