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tractor storage / pressure against now straightene

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andy r

07-05-2005 22:29:36




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I house a few Deere's in a barn converted to a machine shed. Last year I straightened a concrete wall up that had leaned. The part that I use for machine storage has a dirt floor level with the top of the wall. On the other side of the wall is a "basement" lean to. So, the pressure of the dirt on the machine storage side pushed the wall. Now that it is straightened up (I had dug all of the dirt away) what should I back fill it with so the backfill will carry more of the weight rather than pushing against the wall? I did put some hortizontal rods in to hold the wall back. Any ideas??? Dirt? Waste lime? Large limestone? Gravel (costs more)? Any help will be appreciated. andy

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Chooch

07-06-2005 09:52:33




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 Re: tractor storage / pressure against now straigh in reply to andy r, 07-05-2005 22:29:36  
Andy,

You should backfill against the wall using some type of course aggregate such as sand, gravel or crushed stone. Excavate as low as possible along the wall while maintaining enough fall for a drain pipe to drain. Install about 6 inches of aggregate. Install a 4" perforated pipe along the entire length of wall and drain over the hillside. (A large percentage of retaining wall failures are due to water pressure building against the wall.) Continue backfilling the trench with aggregate until about 12 inches from the top. The top 12 inches should be similar to the remainder of your dirt floor. If your dirt is real sandy, it would be best to use a filter fabric around the aggregate backfill.

Theoretically, the aggregate need not be more than 18 inches or so in width for the entire length of the wall. Practically, it may be easier to backfill the entire excavation with aggregate. I prefer a course aggregate in which 100 percent of the stone will pass thru a 1" sieve with minimal fines. For the most part, it is self compacting and does not require the use of a mechanical tamp. I do not like to use river gravel, unless it is well confined at the perimeter, because it has a tendency to "flow" and does not make a stable surface.

Another option, if you do not have a place to run the drain pipe, is to backfill as described above while omitting the pipe. Using a 3/4" masonry bit, drill holes through the concrete wall about 6" above the bottom of the aggregate installed on the back side of the wall. Drill the holes about every 2 to 3 feet apart. These holes will also serve as weep holes to relieve any water pressure that builds. The down side is, they are going to drain on the "basement" floor.

Hope this helps.

Chooch

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andy r

07-06-2005 21:24:24




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 Re: tractor storage / pressure against now straigh in reply to Chooch, 07-06-2005 09:52:33  
Thanks for the ideas. Like you I sort of figured crushed rock would be better than dirt.



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