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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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1950 JD B Electric Start Problems

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elcajonfarms

04-03-2005 11:26:42




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Looking for ideas on the above subject for a late 1950 B (Serial No. 263579). I had posted earlier about starting problems but at this point I think I've narrowed the problem down to the starter electrical switch and/or the starting circuit. The yoke moving the starter to the flywheel gear seems to operate fine and to engage the starter gear and shaft with the flywheel when you push down on the foot pedal, but nothing else happens. The lights work, the coil is new, and the wiring diagram I have shows the ignition switch operating off the same circuit as the lights, with the lights and ignition both feeding off the negative side of the battery AFTER passing through the starter, so I am thinking there is continuous power through the starter but that either the dash-mounted starter switch or the starter itself is not operating. Before it quit, the tractor would crank whether or not you moved the dash-mounted starter switch in and out, but after fiddling with that switch a couple of times it quit completely. Does anyone have any experience with this type of problem or with older JD electrical starting systems generally? I would appreciate any comments or suggestions.

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John51

04-03-2005 14:57:47




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 Same problem on my 60 in reply to elcajonfarms, 04-03-2005 11:26:42  
It was the starter. Had it rebuilt ($77) and the guy said everything was just plain worn. Of course it is 50 years old!



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John T

04-03-2005 11:56:02




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 Re: 1950 JD B Electric Start Problems in reply to elcajonfarms, 04-03-2005 11:26:42  
Cajon, Im not quite sure yet what system you have. Regardless of how they were original, I have seen manyyyyy jury rigs n conversions over the years. At Serial Number 201,000 and up (1947) they changed from an electric starter solenoid (mounted right on starter) which was activated by a start switch, over to the pure mechanical starter switch activated by a push pedal with no electrical type start switch. Therefore, your talk of that dash switch has me a lil cornfused.

From your post and how they were originally made, however, Im guessing for now its not been jury rigged and is like the later mechanical starter switches NOT any solenoid on the starter. Im also assuming you mean the starter is not cranking the engine when you depress the pedal right????? ? NOT that shes cranking but wont start. (If so post back n let me know)

That being said and assumptions made, I suspect either the starter or more likely the mechanical push switch is bad. The big battery cable on the switches post is from the ungrounded battery post, while the smaller wire leading off of it is what normally feeds power up to the lights n ignition via the ammeter. You say the lights are fed from the negative side of the battery??? That will still work as, assuming its Positive ground, its still hot voltage, although it should be fed via the ammeter so it can read true charge or discharge current.

Sooooo oo if my assumptions are correct (its a mechanical start switch and shes not cranking when start pedal is depressed) what I would do is disconenct the batterys ground and then remove the start switch for inspection. If the copper looking post under it, which comes out of the starter, is all burned or carboned up or badly pitted it may be the fault and need replaced. You might try cleaning n wire brushing and light filing it smooth n see if she works then. Also, if the washer/contactor on that push switch is all burned up or carboned that may be the cause and you simply need a new start switch. Make sure any rod adjustments etc allow that start switch to be FULLY DEPRESSED, otherwise it wont make electrical contact.

When depressed to start if the lights dim badly and the battery voltage drops drastically but she dont crank over, I suspect more of a starter problem. However, if the lights dont dim at all but she dont crank, I suspect the switch is bad as discussed above.

FIRST HOWEVER, remove, clean n wire brush, and re attach each n every battery n starter n starter switch n ground cable as a bad cable or connection can be the cause of non or slow cranking. Sure the battery is good n well charged??? Try another battery or a jump !!!!!

Post back your findings and any questions, lemme know then I can probably help you troubleshoot further. Dont overlook simple things like a bad battery or cable or connection or bad ground !!!!! !!

John T Nordhoff in Indiana

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Mike Becker

04-06-2005 18:06:05




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 Re: 1950 JD B Electric Start Problems in reply to John T, 04-03-2005 11:56:02  
John T can you e-mail me? You sound like an experiecd touble shooter and I have some questions about a JD B, 1950 model.
Thank you. Mike



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elcajonfarms

04-03-2005 11:48:40




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 Re: 1950 JD B Electric Start Problems in reply to elcajonfarms, 04-03-2005 11:26:42  
Looking at it a little closer, I do not have an external starter switch, I only have an ignition switch which appears to be a "kill switch"; since I've never actually operated the tractor since acquiring it (but my hauler got it started and drove it off the trailer in my preesence), I don't have any past experience to measure by. All I know is that formerly the starter would crank upon pressing the foot pedal down, with or without manipulating any other switch, but all of a sudden it quit, and now it won't crank but there is power to the lights and coil. It appears the Delco-Remy No. 1107942 starter (which is what my parts catalog shows for a post-201000 serial no. JD B) has an internal switch (Part No. 820052) which could be where the trouble lies. I suppose I could just order that part and install, but before I do,any comments or suggestions would be welcome.

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John T

04-03-2005 12:02:10




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 Re: 1950 JD B Electric Start Problems in reply to elcajonfarms, 04-03-2005 11:48:40  
I didnt see this before posting above, yes, if it has that pure mechanical switch, first check all cables n connections and be sure the battery is good and well charged, then if no cranking and no dimming of lights, I suspect the starter post (under that switch) or a bad switch, assuming its gettign fully depressed and the battery n cables are all good. (see my post above)

John T.



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