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I'd have respectfully disagree on the advice of no more 10-15 seconds cranking at a time. That pony starter is built heavier than most main starters on gas engines of other brands. If you ever did burn out a starter on a pony in 10 or 15 seconds, you had a poor connection via small cables, corrosion, or worn out brushes which caused an excessive current draw. Granted a pony should start within 10 to 15 secs of cranking, but it's not the starter I would worry about. Maybe pull that first, clean the commutator, install new brushes, and oil the nose section. It'll crank the pony with the diesel engaged on decompression. Ponies that have sat for a while generally suffer from poor or lack of spark. I'd bet you'll have to install new coils. Magneeders as well as other shops have full kits of two coils, condensers, points and a wire set. A timing check is pretty easy to do. There is no advance of any sort. As was stated new plugs are a must. Enjoy that experience! Don't be surprised if the carburetor has a plugged main jet as it sits in the very bottom of the bowl. Also, the original cork float is probably broken down, and that will fill the orfices with chunks of debris. A new nylon float is still available from Deere and that 's worth the money in my book. The gasket set is also available, and the last one I bought was not too pricey. $10 or $12 as I recell. If the bypass wire is correctly connected, you will get straight battery voltage only during cranking. The resistor mounted on the switch will drop the voltage to around 4.75V during running. If you install new coils, you might have to play with that resistor as the y newer repro coils seem to like 5 volts minimum. Don't let the switch on when the pony is not running or you risk burning out one or both coils. I'm thinking this is one reason it has been pull started. Change that oil! It only takes a quart, and it is critical. On a pony that has not run in a while, don't be surprised if the rear main oil seal gives out after several hours. I'd also change the pony tranmission oil as well. I have had good success using ATF in there as it's a great lube and will get every where it needs to go. It's also handy in determining if the pony transmission has any leaks. Be ready to change the oils again shortly after you have it running well and warmed up. It's a cheap way to flush out old contamination. If you ever have to lift the pony off for any major service, you might consider installing the infamous "Pony Coil Protection Circuit". It'll save you if you ever let the switch of the pony ignition on or ever run out of oil pressure at the pony. There's an article on my web page if you are interested in the details. Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855 // VAC // '48 Cub // Coming soon... a new addition!
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