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If she keeps blowing a fuse, there must be a short in the wiring or switch or somewhere. One way to diagnose the short is to remove all loads and circuits then replace them one at a time until you find the one thats drawing high current (it will spark when first connected back up). The coils not necessarily your problem for no firing, unless it or its circuit has a dead short or theres an OPEN circuit and its not getting any power to it. It has to have voltage present on its high input (NOT to distributor) terminal when the ignition switch is ON to work, of course, does yours??? If not she cant ever fire. Its source is from the ignition switches IGN output, while the ignition switches hot BAT input is either from the ammeter or the LOAD terminal on 4 wire Voltage Regulators. If you place a test lamp lead on the batterys hot ungrounded terminal it needs a ground to work, so if hooking it to wires (like switches or lights etc) makes it glow, those wires/circuits are getting a ground return path somewhere. Voltage must be present on the ammeters high supply side (from ungrounded batery post maybe via starter lug) and then current flows through it to all loads like lights and switches plus to the Voltage Regulator. It sounds maybe like a wire got shorted somewhere which caused a sudden and catastrophic electrical failure unless a wire broke off or opened up in the battery to ammeter and ammeter to switches n lights n coil etc. If theres no lamp glow at the ammeter, check the wire from the starter or battery to the ammeter,,,,, ,,,,,if theres voltage on BOTH ammeter terminals but no lights or coil power, then check the wires from the ammeter to the Voltage Regulator and switch (BAT input),,,,, ,,,,if theres voltage to the switch input but not to lights or coil, the switch may be bad or open wires from switch to lights or coil etc. A simple test lamp ought to trace down the problem. Good Luck n God Bless John T
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