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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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? Radiator Top/Bottom Tank Surfaces Pitted

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Ken Reese

09-15-2004 11:42:10




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I am restoring a 1939 JD Model "B." The machined surfaces on the top tank and bottom tank which fit/come in contact with the radiator core are somewhat pitted from rust over many years.

What is your experience with situations like this? Will the new gaskets and gasket sealer prevent leakage OR is some planing (machining) of the surface on both parts necessary?




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1945 A

09-16-2004 08:26:08




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 Re: ? Radiator Top/Bottom Tank Surfaces Pitted in reply to Ken Reese, 09-15-2004 11:42:10  
I ran into the same problem when I replaced the radiator core on my "A".
I just cleaned the area real good with a wire wheel, and put red silicone on both sides of the gaskets. That"s been over 2 years ago, and it hasn"t leked yet.
Good Luck!



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G-MAN - one other thing..

09-15-2004 15:34:23




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 Re: ? Radiator Top/Bottom Tank Surfaces Pitted in reply to Ken Reese, 09-15-2004 11:42:10  
Chase out all the holes well, use new hardware and torque to specs. Heli-coil any questionable holes before starting back together and use anti-sieze on the threads.



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G-MAN

09-15-2004 15:33:15




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 Re: ? Radiator Top/Bottom Tank Surfaces Pitted in reply to Ken Reese, 09-15-2004 11:42:10  
The tanks on my "G" were badly pitted in places. I cleaned up the surfaces well, laid some JB-Weld in the pits, allowed it to cure fully and buffed it off smooth with Scotch-Brite disks on a die grinder. I used JD gaskets with a little hi-tack on them and didn't have leak one when it was done. F-I-T is right about the no-pressure systems. They're much more forgiving than pressurized systems.



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Cal.V

09-15-2004 12:25:58




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 Re: ? Radiator Top/Bottom Tank Surfaces Pitted in reply to Ken Reese, 09-15-2004 11:42:10  
Watch when your machining, I ran across one on an AR that someone had repaired and they took off so much material that the shutter mounting holes (unstyled) had to be oblonged to fit properly and the hood and upper rad hose didn"t line up very well. I to have had success with the thicker gaskets (not O.E.M) and permatex.



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Mike M

09-15-2004 12:06:51




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 Re: ? Radiator Top/Bottom Tank Surfaces Pitted in reply to Ken Reese, 09-15-2004 11:42:10  
I would say remachine them if you can. I also make my own gaskets out of thick gasket material as the OEM from JD are too thin. I have also used some good silicone sealer on some. I always sandblast those also to get them clean. You may also be able to use JB weld to fill in the deep ones.



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F-I-T

09-15-2004 12:03:53




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 Re: ? Radiator Top/Bottom Tank Surfaces Pitted in reply to Ken Reese, 09-15-2004 11:42:10  
Ken:

I have done several things depending on the amount of pitting.

First, clean ALL the rust out of the pis to bare metal, using electrolysis or media blasting.

You can skip the de-rusting if you plan on machining the surfaces back to flat. Once blasted, you can either use lots of Permatex (almost always works fine) and sometimes two gaskets, or treat the surfaces with a quality leveler like fiberglass resin or JB weld. Sand or machine back to true.

Having everything clean is important so the filler bonds and is not lifted by subsequent rusting. I usually clean with electrolysis, then wire brush to bare iron, then prime and seal with a quality epoxy primer.

I suppose you could even fill them with lead type body solder.

Since the "B" is not pressurized, you only have to hold an anti-freeze mixture, so there are many sealants that will do the job.

Frank

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Ken Reese

09-16-2004 15:06:07




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 Re: ? Radiator Top/Bottom Tank Surfaces Pitted in reply to F-I-T, 09-15-2004 12:03:53  
Thanks for all of the excellent suggestions.



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