|
John, YES, its simple to convert an older light switch field control system and a cutout relay to a Voltage Regulator system, and then use just a regular simple ON/OFF light switch. First, have you checked with Agri Services and some of the other after market suppiers for a better price on the original type dual purpose combination light switch field controllers?? Whats the problem with your existing one??? On your old one, it has to have a good solid frame ground connection up there at the dash for it to work you know (plus its resistor good) and the wire from the Field post on the Generator up to that switch must be good also. If your Gen will charge with its Field dead grounded there at the Gen, but it wont charge in the high or low charge light switch position, the switch may be bad or its not well grounded or the wires missing from Field on the Gen up to that switch. CONVERSION FROM A LIGHT SWITCH CONTROL AND CUTOUT RELAY TO A VOLTAGE REGULATOR 1) You likely have an older 3 brush Generator, and if so, I would first adjust its moveable 3rd brush all the way over close to the one its near which is the max charge setting. 2) Buy a new 6 volt 3 terminal (BAT ARM FLD) Voltage Regulator suitable for POSITIVE ground which matches the Delco system you have. I assume you have an original Delco type 6 volt Generator and youre at POSITIVE ground as original????? ??? If not, post back. 3) Wire the new VR as follows: a) BAT on the VR goes up to the Load (NOT to battery) side of the Ammeter. 12 Ga. will suffice and/or that would be the old wire from the load side of the Ammeter to the BAT (NOT to Generator) side of the old cutout relay. b) ARM (or Gen) terminal on the VR wires to the Armature (larger of the 2) post on the Generator. That should be the old wire from the Generator side of the cutout relay which led to the Armature post on the Generator. c) Field terminal on the VR wires to the Field post (smaller of the 2) on the Generator. d) The VR has to be well grounded, usually direct to the Generators frame. Of course, the Gen also must be well grounded and the belt good n tight for a good charge. e) The new ON/OFF Push/Pull or Toggle Light Switch should receive its battery input power from the load (NOT to Battery) side of the ammeter, and switched output terminal, of course, to the lights. That could be the same old wire from the ammeter load terminal which fed the old field control light switch. NOTE BOTH the Battery and Load side of the Ammeter must ALWAYS show hot battery voltage plus the BAT terminal on the new VR if all is wired correct and to function. The Gens output cant get to and charge the battery if it has no connection to it. The usual path is from the hot ungrounded battery post,,,,, ,,often to the starter lug,,,,, ,,,,to Battery side of the Ammeter,,,,, ,,,,, through the Ammeter to its Load side,,,,, ,,,,, to the BAT terminal on the VR,,,,, ,,through the cutout relay portion of the VR (which closes if Gens voltage exceeds batteries),,,,, ,,,to the ARM terminal on the VR,,,,, ,,,to the Generators Armature post. SUMMARY: Remove the old switch and cutout relay,,,,, ,,,,,adjust any 3rd brush to max charge,,,,, ,wire the new 3 terminal Positive Ground type VR as posted above to the Ammeters load side and Generator,,,,, ,,,,,use a regular dash mounted push/pull ON/OFF or Toggle light switch fed off the ammeters load side (same place where the wire to BAT on VR is wired). Post back or e mail any questions to [email protected]. Good Luck n God Bless John T
|
