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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum

generator regulator operation

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Joe P.

05-26-2004 04:53:21

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I learned something the other day, but also ran into more questions. I always thought a VR was just for voltage regulation. And perhaps it is, but most people call ALL regulators voltage regulators even if, as in my case, it regulates voltage, curent, and battery charging. My 64 3020, 12V neg grnd, has some charging problems. In the process of looking for the cause, I took the regulator off and apart. I checked the point and air gaps per the service manual. The cutout relay was fine. But, the current and voltage relays were at about .030 air gap and the book says .075. Now the interesting part -- I loosened the little nuts to move the armature arm up to get the .075 gap and it was limited to about .035 by the actual structure itself. So I commences to bend the structure itself to just beyond .075 so I can get positive point contact when I reinstall the point adjuster arm. All this worked fine, but I have not run the tractor yet after doing this. Why was the air gap limited in the first place? Its almost as if sometime in the past, someone had replaced the regulator with an aftermarket or later model one which was not made for an air gap in the .075 range. And what difference will the air gap actually make? Does a wider gap in the voltage and current relays increase battery charging or dercrease it? Thanks for any help. This charging problem has been a thorn in my side since acquiring this tractor. And by the way, I have already checked for shorted wires and current draws and found none, thus I went to the regulator. Thanks again,
Joe in Ohio

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Lee

05-28-2004 00:55:58

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Re: generator regulator operation in reply to Joe P., 05-26-2004 04:53:21

I'm with Bob on this one, as books can be wrong to start with and they might even be talking about a different regulator than the one you are working on.

Air gaps are often limited like this in order to keep the magnetic part in close enough to the electro-magnet such that the electro-magnet can 'grab' it. Magnetism is a force that increases or decreases as the square of the distance is changed which means it drops to nothing pretty darn quick the further you get away from it. Too far and it won't work at all. The only 'allowed' items to bend on a regulator generally speaking are the spring tabs that would alter the spring force holding the points open or closed as the case may be. But now that you've had some practice you should be able to set that new regulator just about perfect?

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HTR

05-26-2004 17:44:55

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Re: generator regulator operation in reply to Joe P., 05-26-2004 04:53:21

1964, 3020s with generators, were positive ground from the factory.

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Joe P.

05-27-2004 04:27:20

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Re: Re: generator regulator operation in reply to HTR, 05-26-2004 17:44:55

Yes, I know. Mine has been converted (not by me) to a negative grnd.

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Bob M

05-26-2004 06:00:39

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Re: generator regulator operation in reply to Joe P., 05-26-2004 04:53:21

Joe - Briefly, the wider the gap in a voltage (or current) regulating relay, the HIGHER the voltage (or current) before it actuates. Means then the regulator will �regulate� at a higher voltage/current setting.

My recommendation: Buy a new regulator! Correctly setting armature air gaps, relay spring tensions, etc is a fussy procedure requiring specialized tools and test equipment. If you get it wrong you risk an undercharged battery (if you are lucky...) More likely however is a fried generator, cooked battery and burned out lights.

$60 or so for a new regulator will be money well spent!

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