|
Kelly, Before you get into the carb make sure you are getting a fat blue spark out of each spark plug. A weak spark will have you chasing phantom carb problems for days. Assuming the spark is good (and the plugs are both in good (or better yet new) condition, I'd check the fuel flow to the carb. Disconnect the fuel line running to the carb and look for Mr. Clooney's "pencil sized flow for at least 30 seconds". If thats okay (and the sediment bowl has been cleaned) I'd check to see if the carb needle and seat are opening. Remove the carb bowl and watch for good fuel flow. I seem to recall a brass screen in the fuel inlet on that carb as well. If the fuel is flowing into the bowl okay, its time to see if the carb responds to adjustments. First make sure the choke plates are opening and closing properly. They are spring loaded. Turn in the main mixture control screw (power screw) located directly under the bowl all the way in and back off about 1.5 turns. That should get you started. Crank up the tractor and see if it responds to changes in the indivual idle mixture screws. If the idle adjusts okay but she still misses a bit at fast idle, try turning out the power screw a bit. If the tractor does not respond to carb adjustments then I'd rebuild the carb, taking care to very throughly clean all the little passages. If you don't like the idea of rebuilding the carb yourself there are lots of places that will trade you for a recently rebuilt unit. Best of luck,
John
1953 Model 50
| 
