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Dave, Sititng a few years can cause problems fer sure. Below are some general tune up and things I recommend if shes sat a good while, regardless if they are the cause of your problems, although they could well be a contributing factor. Among other things, that popping out the carb could be due a sticking valve caused by gum, varnish or carbon. Your timing could be off, what ignition do you have???? You have fresh plugs and are the points gapped proper and NOT burned, pitted or gray oxide coated?? You might wanna pull the valve covers, check the valve springs and lash, and check and exercise the valves to see if they are opening then the spring pops them right back closed. If its a stickign valve, after the use of PB Blaster etc. and WD 40 and exercising them, I would change the oil, fill with a good detergent oil, add a couple quarts of Rislone and a can of Marvel Top oil to the mix, add a small can of 2 cycle oil to a full tank of FRESH CLEAN WATER FREE gas, and put the tractor under a long sustained hard load/pull with the temp up to 190 or so. Next, you might wanna install a fresh set of plugs if you havent already, maybe try Autolite 3077 if its an Unstyled model or 388 if its Styled, check the points and replace if burned or pitted or gray oxide coated and check for proper gap. Use wire core plug wires and NOT carbon suppressor types. I would remove both plugs, attach their plug wire but have their sides grounded, crank her over AND MAKE SURE BOTH PLUGS produce a good visible blue and NOT a faint thuin wimpy yellow spark. If so, post back what ignition you have and I will give you some ignition troubleshootign tips. Next try adjustign the carbs needles, the initial rough in settings are closed down then 1 1/2 to 2 out for the idle and 3/4 to 1 out for the load. Make sure the air cleaners lower bowl is clean and free of water and insure you have fresh clean water free gas!!!!! !!!!! !!!!! Also, make sure the chokes buterfly plate is tight on the shaft and stays put relative to where its set. You may wanna check for a vacuum leak. At idle spray Carb Cleaner or WD 40 or an unlit propane torch all around the manifold base, carb to manifold junction, and the carb, especially its throttle shaft bushings. If anyplace makes her speed up n smooth out, you found a vacuum leak which can cause poor rough idle. After that (valve check) I would just run her a while under as much load as possible and be sure n get the temp up to 190 or so,,,,, ,,, fresh water free gas, an ignition tune up (points n plugs),,,,, ,,,,, ,,,, check the distributor/mag cap for moisture or cracks or carbon traces, change the oil and add Rislone and/or Marvel plus add some 2 cycle oil with the gas,,,,, ,try adjusting the carbs needles,,,,, , and see what happens. You could still easily have a carb problem, but check the gas, air cleaners bowl, timing, valves, and maybe tune up and carb adjusting n vacuum leak check and see what happens. If that shaking/vibration is bad and BOTH cylinders have compression and are working n firing approximately equal, the flywheel or clutch drive disk could possibly be out of time on the wrong crankshaft spline. Has anyone worked on the clutch or had the flywheel off you know of???? Post back or e mail [email protected] any questions. Maybe a lil maintenance and a general tune up per above, followed by long hot use is all you need??? Good Luck n God Bless John T
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