Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
:

How to Rebuild Seal ?- Sediment Bowl Shut-off Valv

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
Ken Reese

04-13-2004 07:52:03




Report to Moderator

This question is about the seal/washer in the shut-off valve of the fuel body/sediment bowl of my '39 "B". The leather (I think they are leather) washer/seal has deteriorated and replacements are no longer available.

What materials are YT folks using to seal up the shaft to stop the gas leaking around the shaft and on to the block?

I bet there are a good number of creative solutions. Any suggestions will be apprectiated.

Ken

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
River Rat

04-14-2004 02:02:40




Report to Moderator
 Re: How to Rebuild Seal ?- Sediment Bowl Shut-off in reply to Ken Reese, 04-13-2004 07:52:03  
Lead works the best.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bill

04-13-2004 14:01:35




Report to Moderator
 Re: How to Rebuild Seal ?- Sediment Bowl Shut-off in reply to Ken Reese, 04-13-2004 07:52:03  

I use teflon tape rolled into a string and pack as much as I can tighten nut then put more in you can tighten the nut pretty tight and the valve will still turn easy and not leak works for me



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
ET

04-13-2004 11:35:41




Report to Moderator
 Re: How to Rebuild Seal ?- Sediment Bowl Shut-off in reply to Ken Reese, 04-13-2004 07:52:03  
Go to a plumbing store and get ome rope type waterpump shaft packing. The piece I got was about 1/4" diamiter but you can unravel it a couple of strands at a time and wrap it around the shaft on the shut of valve. If you don't get enough on the first time you can just wrap more on. The packing rope looks like it has graphite on it.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Bob

04-13-2004 10:28:58




Report to Moderator
 Re: How to Rebuild Seal ?- Sediment Bowl Shut-off in reply to Ken Reese, 04-13-2004 07:52:03  
As silly as this sounds, old-timers sometimes recommend taking a length of cotton string from a mophead, and drawing it through a bar of old-fashioned bar soap. You then wrap the string around the stem, and squeeze it tight with the nut. It usually seals remarkably well.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Mike M

04-13-2004 09:52:32




Report to Moderator
 Re: How to Rebuild Seal ?- Sediment Bowl Shut-off in reply to Ken Reese, 04-13-2004 07:52:03  
I just throw those old style fuel bowls away and replace with the newer style that actually shut off with a tapered seat. Those original type with the cross drilled hole will always seap past the insides and not completly shut off. New ones were around $20 at JD.



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Jason Z in Mo

04-13-2004 09:21:38




Report to Moderator
 Re: How to Rebuild Seal ?- Sediment Bowl Shut-off in reply to Ken Reese, 04-13-2004 07:52:03  
Ken,

Good question! I have fought those leaky bowls and valves on all my old stuff! I have a few Gravely tractors with the small bowls and they are really hard to stop leaking.

I have tried o-rings without any luck.

Great job at the Gathering of the Green. Looking forward for the next one!

Jason



[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
JD-A

04-13-2004 08:19:25




Report to Moderator
 Re: How to Rebuild Seal ?- Sediment Bowl Shut-off in reply to Ken Reese, 04-13-2004 07:52:03  
I used leather, the thick skirting leather from saddle scraps, for the brass valve I drilled a half inch hole w/ a brad point bit then roughed out the outside w/ a pocket knife then stood a wood beltsander up in a vise and sanded the taper around the outside to a tight fit in the housing ,tried to saturate the leather w/ grease,assembled. It has not leaked yet. Now the settlin' bowl was different cut a strip w/ beveled edge a v cut on one end and a point cut to match, lengh is important. Note grease this when you test fit mine went together abd would not come apart , but it only leaks when I kill the tractor and leave the valve on. good luck.

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy