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John Deere Tractors Discussion Forum
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Machine Work on 1937AR

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JunkDigger

03-19-2004 09:46:44




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The machine shop I took my 1937AR engine to called today. They said the cylinders are worn .014 on the bottoms. One rod journal is worn .008 undersize, and the other is .010 under. To correct this they need to grind the crank, replace the babbitt rod bearings with inserts, and bore the cyclinders. The cost would be $850.00, and I would still have to find replacement pistons, and main bearings. My question.... is all this necessary for an engine that will run maybe five, or six times a year, at under 500RPM? Or am I just being cheap?

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Lee

03-19-2004 21:55:58




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 Re: Machine Work on 1937AR in reply to JunkDigger, 03-19-2004 09:46:44  
I'd say you were being robbed with no more info that you've stated. Normal process for rod bearing wear is to simply remove a shim or two - UNLESS your crank is 'out of round' by .008 which is much more serious matter than just worn down by that much. Please double check that part, if it's out of round by .003 or more, the crank really should be ground back to round condition, but not neccessarily ground down to the next .010 undersize as would be the custom with insert bearings. Babbit condition is important here, I wouldn't replace until at least %50 of the babbit surface was pitted, maybe even %60 gone.

.014 wear in the cylinders can be lived with depending on how long and hard you expect it to work. Sounds like rare and light duty work so you should be fine as is for decades to come.

You are not cheap, I am. I'd get the crank issue straightend out and then just hone the cylinders myself, reusing the old rings as well. I take a good file to them and knock off the sharp edge, dress the face of the rings completely but never the sides. Works like new - what can I say? cheap-cheap

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Mike M

03-19-2004 15:59:47




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 Re: Machine Work on 1937AR in reply to JunkDigger, 03-19-2004 09:46:44  
Why was it torn down that far ? Was there a specific problem ? .014 worn on the bottoms ? If that is .014 worn at the top[cyl. head end]with a good honing and new rings on castiron pistons without worn top grooves you probably won't know the differance between new bores if not working it.On the crank I wonder if maybe it was ground before to .010 under thats alot to wear. Does it look smooth or all grooved up ?If it is round and smooth I would measure the I.D.of the rod ends to get a accurate measurement of the clearance. If you only have money to do one I might lean towards the crank first since its out now and would be much harder to pull out later than the block if not satisfied. I would shop around as the prices quoted seem really high.Just for kicks call Randy at Center Automotive in Ohio at 1-800-548-2486 They work on these large engine parts and should be able to give you a quote over the phone. I would have done it for you but it is past thier closing time. If your crank is shot don't be affraid of finding a used one.Most aren't worn out just check the splines close.Most machine shops get overconcerned on precision AND RIGHTLY SO I HOPE but these are not modern high speed engines needed to run for hours on end and so you can get away with less than perfect within limits learned by hands on trial and error.

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Jack

03-19-2004 12:24:26




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 Re: Machine Work on 1937AR in reply to JunkDigger, 03-19-2004 09:46:44  
It's tough to get machine shops to do anything on the cheap these days. If I were to skimp on any of the necessary repairs, it would likely be the crank work IF the lobes aren't worn so out-of-round that the babbitted bearings refuse to adjust properly. Many people will tell you you need a turned crank, etc. etc., but you can tighten the bearings if you don't plan to work the tractor too hard. Key factor is the quality of remaining babbitt - If the babbitt is in decent shape, with few nics and NO bronze showing, you will probably be OK. Tighten one shim to a time (making sure each shim pack is even before starting) until the rotating assembly begins to bind. Then add a shim to see if it frees up. Start with the mains (rods disconnected) then do the rods. With significant cylinder taper, it is a good idea to oversize the pistons, then someday if the mood strikes you, you can work the crank & split the bill so to speak. I know many will say I'm nuts, but when a retired 2-Cyl mechanic utilizes this process on his old, low-use parade tractors (with no evil side effects) it's OK for me. Besides, I'd rather spend the scratch on something truly worthwhile, or better yet save it. The secret is low RPM's - If the motor turns above 1000 much, it's a different story.

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Harold

03-19-2004 20:52:09




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 Re: Re: Machine Work on 1937AR in reply to Jack, 03-19-2004 12:24:26  
I agree with the previous posts, If you hone your block and install new rings it will work as good as new and if your crankshaft is smooth and shiny, just remove some shims making sure you dont make them to tight, Do one at a time, once it starts to drag take one or two shims back out so it spins smooth again. I restored a 41 AR two years ago that was stuck and was worn at least as much as yours and I am chasing around town with it everyday in the summer, even pulling out the odd little tree stump for the neighbours. make sure you have good oil preasure. Good luck and dont hesitate to ask more questions if not sure.----- Harold

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Junkdigger

03-23-2004 10:10:05




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 Re: Re: Re: Machine Work on 1937AR in reply to Harold, 03-19-2004 20:52:09  
Thanks everyone, for your help. I think at this point I'll pick up my engine and do some checking myself. One person said I should send the pistons out and have them flame-welded, then they grind them to fit the cylinders. Anyone ever have this done?

Thanks



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