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First of all, do you have any reason to believe the tractor run when parked, or is there a possibility of a major problem that ended it's working life? If there is a major problem, it would be good to know that before you put a lot of time and money into fixing little things, only to find you have big troubles on your hands. Get an owner's manual, and shop manual. You can call Deere Service publications direct at 1-800-522-7448 to order the factory manuals, printed version, or CD-ROM, and an aftermarket I&T (Implement and Tractor) shop manual is probably available through the sponsors of this site. Some people find the I&T manual easier to understand, and sometimes the genuine Deere manual is more thorough, so if you're serious about fixing this thing up, it is probably a good idea to have both shop manuals. Drain and change engine and transmission oil. Flush the cooling system, and fill it with water and check for major leaks, or damage. Check for spark. If you do not have spark, and are not familiar with magnetos, remove the mag, and have a professional repair it, but before removing it, read up on timing in the shop manual, and position the engine in the proper position for mag removal, and DO NOT CRANK IT with the mag off, so the timing gets screwed up. This is no big deal, but just one more hurdle for a novice to overcome if the timing gets screwed up. Check the fuel system. The fuel tank may be full of "dead" gas and/or varnish. A search of the archives on this page should reveal a wealth of information on cleaning gas tanks. If there is crud in the gas tank, the fuel valves and lines will probably have crud in them, too, and the carburetor may need to be disassembled, and soaked in carburetor cleaner. There is carburetor repair info available, as well as videos, or you may choose to send the carburetor to a professional for complete rebuilding. If you clean the carburetor yourself, be sure to have complete information at hand showing all the internal passages that have to be clean for proper operation of the carburetor. The engine will run just fine on today's unleaded gasoline. If you have gasohol in your area, it is probably best to avoid it for old tractor use, because it seems to go stale faster when the tractor sits unused for a while. The reason for the kerosene in the old days is that it was a cheaper fuel. The engine had to be warmed up, probably under load, on gasoline, and then the valve was switched to the cheaper fuel. Kerosene, distillate, or tractor fuel, were some of the names for the product used. For your "hobby" use, I'm sure you'll want to avoid those alternative fuels! If parts are needed, check with your local Deere dealer first, as quite a few parts for the old "2-bangers" are still available from Deere. Good Luck, and email if I can be of any further help. I've got a twin to your little tractor that I need to get spruced up and painted in the next few years, before my 4-year-old is old enough to drive it in a parade!
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