John Deere 60 has been a dear to me ... pto slipp

~First off: before even trying to adjust the PTO on that 60 remove the PTO housing fill plug & give it a good sniff [don�t let your friends see you do this].. What you are looking for is signs of transmission gear oil in the PTO housing.. If you don�t know what Deere transmission gear oil smells like just open the tans filler plug & sniff in there first..

~If the PTO is over full, OR the Trans is low, Or the PTO housing smells like trans fluid you probably have a failed PTO lube pump seal & there is a real good chance your PTO clutch plates are de-laminated or are warped [somewhat common problem on the old 2-cylinder Deere�s].. If you suspect trans fluid in the PTO housing, post back here, or E-Mail me, or, [AND] buy a service manual.. All the adjustment in the world won�t help a PTO that�s running in trans gear oil..

~Next, don�t mess with the rod length between the hand lever & PTO fork shaft. That has nothing to do with the PTO clutch operation on the 60.. Just make sure the hand lever doesn�t bind or contact the seat box mounting area when in the engaged position & not held there by hand..

~Now on the PTO clutch adjustment.. You have the early 60 PTO set-up [under S/N 6033676] so that means you don�t have a screw to mess with on the PTO clutch adjusting collar, [you have a bent locking tang instead]..

~You will probably have to drain the PTO fluid level enough to see & work in there [a good time to change it anyway]..

~The place to start is to remove the 2 PTO housing plugs on the R/H side [one smaller one just behind the clutch fork shaft & one larger one just in front of & below the PTO clutch fork shaft]� Next find a .090� wire [I use a 3/32� TIG welding wire �.094�] & bend one end so it is over about �" from the main length of the wire [you�ll figure it out when you go to use it]� Then snap the PTO clutch in while looking in the smaller rear hole, you should see the PTO brake move� Where you see the PTO brake move, slide that wire in between the brake & where it moved from, if that 3/32�wire will fit but isn�t too loose your PTO adjustment is about correct. If the wire won�t fit [or is too loose] you will find a screw on top on the PTO housing with a cap nut on it, remove the cap nut & loosen the lock nut then back that screw out about 1 turn� Next, look in the front hole & snap the PTO clutch out, then turn the rear PTO stub shaft until you see the bent lock tab engaged in the clutch adjusting cam slot, then pry that locking tab out of the cam slot.. Then use a screw driver or punch & turn the clutch adjusting cam in the Counter Clock Wise direction to tighten the clutch [try one notch to begin with] � After you turn the cam one notch CCW snap the clutch back in & see if that 3/32� wire will fit between the PTO brake & where it moved away from.. Keep turning on that notched cam until the PTO brake moves away from it�s resting place about 3/32� when the PTO clutch is snapped in.. Once you have it where you want it, re-bend that locking tab into the cam slot.. Then run that set screw on top of the PTO housing in until it touches the fork then turn it back out 1 complete turn, then tighten the lock nut & install the cap nut..

~It�s really quit simple [once you have done it a few times]..

~A manual would be a big help as those usually have pictures to go by.. The I&T manual [JD-10] actually does a pretty good job for the PTO adjustment procedure & isn�t that expensive..

~It might help to print his out & take it out to the tractor with you..

Any questions just post back or E-Mail..

[email protected]

BEFORE STARTING THIS PROCEDURE, PARK THE TRACTOR ON LEVEL GROUND, AND SET THE BRAKE. ALSO, THE TRACTOR SHOULD BE OFF FOR THE ENTIRE PROCCDURE.

first drain all the oil out of the pto clutch housing. next remove the square headed pipe plug (has a 3/4 in square in the pug, a 3/4 in. drive breaker bar works good) that is located on the rh side of the housing, also remove the the smaller pipe plug on the housing cover.

disengage the pto drive from the engine this is on the operators platform by the clutch lever. rotate the pto by hand, WITH THE TRACTOR OFF!!! until you see the locking tab in the big hole i believe. take a punch and bend the locking tab toward the front of the tractor.

now, engage the clutch, handle mounted on the battery box, MAKE SHURE THE TRACOR IS OFF STILL!!
check the clearance between the pto brake and the inner coller (one toward the rear of the tractor) in the smaller hole using a feeler gauge.

if it is less than .060, you need to disengage the clutch, and turn the adjuster nut, so it is lengthened. give it a couple of turns and then reengage the clutch to check the clearance again. repeat this proceedure until you get a gap of .060. if you get a gap of more than .060 then you need to turn the adjuster nut back. the feeler gauge should go in with very little resistance.

when you have the clutch adjusted right, rotate the pto shaft until you see the slot where the locking tab and the adjuster nut match up or almost match up. if the tab and the slot do not match up, find the one where the two almost match up, and rotate the adjuster nut until one or the other untill the slot of the adjuster nut and the tab line up. bend the tab back in to place and refill with oil, and replace the plugs.

then you should test it out on a load. in other words, hook it up to an implement and test it out. if it continues to slip you may need to rebuild the entire clutch.

i hope this helps. the .060 spec i gave may be wrong, so call and check with your jd dealer before starting this proccdure. also this procedure should be done on the level with the brakes set and the tractor off.

jared
JD AG TECH STUDENT

First, have you tried to adjust the external linkage rod??? Thats fairly easy, and does she still at least "snap over" but slips under load?????

I remember the adjuster opening is on the right side of the PTO assembly and has 2 bolts like a flat cover plate, but I sort of recall being able to adjust via the big pipe thread filler hole??? Maybe different models???

Once the adjuster/inspection plate is off, look in and you see a large moveable (via turning on threads) slotted circular end plate adjuster/nut which pushes against the clutches to tighten them up. If you rotate the assembly, inside ONLY ONE of those open end notches, you will find a stop screw (thin with screwdriver slot in end), which is out, thereby not allowign the big adjuster/nut to be turned.

Screw it in (so you can turn big adjuster/nut) and then by using a punch you rotate the big adjuster/nut to tighten the clutch tension to a new slot so you can then lock it by screwing that slotted screw back OUT.

Try tightening it a bit at a time until the mechanism will snap over and hold in.

If tightening dont hold her, it may be time for a new set of clutches grrrrr rrr a pain, been there done that too.

Sorry Im not much help in this area, but this may be a start until some of the other good ol boys can give you more detail or pictures.

God Bless ya

John T