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720 Deere: Are you sure it's a head gasket? You can have a leaking waterpump shaft seal that can allow coolant into the crankcase too. (Been there, done that got the tee shirt). The shafts are very simple, but NLA from Deere. Greg Steven has them, though. Seals are available from Deere. That said, I overhauled my pony about 18 months ago, and I do have some thoughts. First, rebuild that water pump. If it's not leaking now, good. Then shaft is probably all right to use. The impeller was available when I did mine. I had some problems finding someone that could grind the valves and cut the seats. I had to go to a small engine shop for the valve grind, then to the machine shop, where they ground down a stone to get in there. Everything is so tiny. If you have a lot of rusty flakey deposits in the block, consider having it hot tanked or clean it with electrolysis. The deposits really hamper the cooling ability. You'll need to remove the sleeves, but you'll want to replace the o-ring seals anyway. Be sure you hone the sleeves. Really makes them break in much faster. Those pony sleeves have a tendency to be glazed (especially if had hot spots). Inspect the rods closely. Polish the crank to remove the high spots and lines. Any improvement you can make on the microfinish will deter the aluminum from galling to the crank at a later time. Replace the front and rear main oil seals. The rear one failing was the reason I had to tear mine down in the first place. Re-face the clutch. It's easy to do, and you don't want to have to do it later. Set it by the book and it will work A-OK. It's tough to chase clutch problems after you went to all the trouble of having the pony off. Replace the transmission brake. Check the overrunning clutch for any catching. It's pretty easy to renew and will ensure very smooth operation. Check and probably replace the bearings in the transmission. Unless you're sure thay're good, it's cheap insurance now. If you haven't worked on the carb, now's a good time to do it. The gasket kit is remarkably cheap, and trust me, I bet there's dirt in the bowl. Clean the passages with nothing more than very soft wire. That pot metal is easy to over work. Mark the flywheel markings with bright paint. It's tough to see them unmarked, and it will definately help later. Be sure you mark the #1 spark differently from the #1 TDC mark. Last, if you haven't installed a pony motor oil pressure coil protection circuit, do it now. You can thank me later! Details on my webpage if you need them. Other than that, it's not a tough job at all. Even I could do it! Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855 // VAC
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