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Good evenng Josh, I can tell you how to polarize it, but I doubt if thats the problem if it worked before but no longer is. Simply momenrarily flash jump a wire from the Voltage Regulator's BAT terminal over to its ARM (or GEN) terminal and you should get a spark and shes polarized. If she still dont charge, I have cut and pasted an answer below to a similar problem that involved a Generator and Voltage Regulator where she didnt charge. 1) First, if you have a voltmeter, place it on the battery not runnign and the battery voltage (if 12 v system) should read 12.6 volts. Then, start her up and at wide open throttle, it should rise to at least around 13 to 14.5 area, depending on the condition of the battery, generator, etc. If it doesnt rise or rises only slightly, you may have either a battery,,,,, ,, or generator,,,,, ,,,, or a voltage regulator problem. Do you have an ammeter or some sort of idiot light????? ??? Is the belt good and tight and the generator and VR well grounded??? Try groundign the generator and voltage regulators case with a good ground wire from the grounded battery post and see if she charges then, or even loosen and re tighten the gen and VR mounting bolts/screws to see if she charges. The battery has to be good and not have any dead cells. Is the electrolyte level above the plates and no cells have a gray or milky color?? There has to be battery voltage present at all times on the VR's BAT terminal, use a voltmeter or test lamp to insure that, cuz she cant charge if the gen cant get to the battery. If it has an ammeter, with the tractor off if you turn on lights does it swing to discharge??? or does an idiot light go or stay on??? If the gen and VR are well grounded, belt tight, battery good, and theres battery voltage present on the VR's BAT terminal and she wont charge, try this: NOW, to test if its a Voltage Regulator or Generator problem, with it running use a jumper wire and connect the Field wire post out of the generator (smaller of the two posts) to ground and see if the ammeter (if it has one) shows better charge or the battery voltage rises or idiot light goes off. If it does charge better then, the generator is probably okay but you either have a faulty Voltage Regulator or a broken connection between the generators field post and the VR's Field terminal, or a poorly grounded VR. NEXT, if that jump doesnt make any difference, with it still in place and tractor running, try momentarily jumping together the Bat terminal on the VR to the Arm (or Gen) on the VR and see if any ammeter shows more charge or the battery voltage rises or idiot light go off. What that test does is check the Cut Out relay portion of the VR. NOW if neither of those jumps helps the charging, its likely a generator and not a VR problem, since those 2 jumps basically takes the VR out of the circuit. Another way to test just the generator, is to remove its belt, and apply direct battery voltage to the Arm (bigger of the 2) terminals on the Generator to see if she motors and runs. If she does and if you ground out its Field terminal and she slows down some, the generator is usually fine. Other things that can cause the battery to not remain charged are a weak cell in the battery or a short in the tractor wiring. If everything is shut off and you disconnect and connect one of the battery terminals, there should be no small sparks, otherwise theres a trickle load short which runs down the battery. Have you had a load test performed on the battery??? Also, the battery can never be charged if theres not a good connection between the BAT terminal on the VR to the battery itself. That would be through an ammeter (if it has one) then to the battery, often via the starter post. A test lamp or voltmeter should indicate full battery voltage at the BAT terminal on the VR. IF A TEST LAMP DOES NOT SHOW BATTERY VOLTAGE AT THE VR'S BAT TERMINAL AT ALL TIMES, THE GENERATORS OUTPUT CANT EVER GET TO AND CHARGE THE BATTERY. Often if a gen wont charge (still wont charge even if VR by passed per all the above and all else is okay) the brush hold down spring assemblys are corroded or stuck. Try using air and/or WD 40 to clean them cuz the springs have to hold the brushes tight down against the commutator to work. The brushes may be just worn down too short also or the commutator gummed or carboned up. The fields or armature could be bad, but thats a whole other post. Post back or e mail me at [email protected] with any more questions and let me know what you find. Good luck n God Bless John T Nordhoff in Indiana
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