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In all of the numbers you quoted you left out the temp of the thermostat that you put in. Summer time temps sound just about right but winter temps should be warmer. Almost sounds like the bleed hole in the thermostat is too big or a gasket prevents it from closing the last 1/16"? Today's auto's run 190 mainly for emissions reasons where 160 is better for a longer life with better oil viscosity/lubrication. The main wear factor in engines has long been touted as cold running due to clearances being tighter - but that is not the case, clearances are always looser at cold temps than at warm. Cast iron block shrinks/expands less due to heat change than any other common material used in engines so piston/bore clearance is greater at 30 than at 130. Real reason for 'cold wear' is acid condensation inside the cylinder getting into the oil and being pumped around into those clearances eating away at them and your cylinders. A hot cup of coffee has no condensation on the outside of the cup, but a cold beer does - so the critical temp is much lower than one is lead to believe. At 160 degree water temp the inside of the cylinder is at least 20 degrees hotter due to thermal resistance of cast iron to conduct heat. In my opinion, 160 is plenty hot enough to prevent acid condensation. I'd try some cardboard over the raditor in winter and never give it another thought. But you could put in a 190 degree thermostat with the bleed hole soldered shut if you wanted to be absolutely sure and it wouldn't hurt my feelings one bit. It's obvious from the current setup that you don't have a problem with the raditator getting rid of heat. One reason you are not seeing the expected temps at the exhaust manifold is that the engine is not running full out even if you work it as hard as you can. Not anything like an irrigation motor let's say, now those things have manifolds you can read a book by at night. If you can figure out how to load a backhoe like a farmer can load an irrigation engine let me know, I'd like to watch that (from a very safe distance). Seriously, the hydraulic pump is likely undersized to the engine's hp rating to keep it from outright killing it just when you need it the most. So you can never really load it hard as it can stand anyway. Too little or too much fuel for a good running diesel? No, impossible situation. With good injectors spraying a good pattern, the more fuel you put in means the more power you get out from idle on up. Engine RPM and power output will match exactly the amount of fuel you put in it via the injection pump. They normally run excessively lean except when loaded very hard and putting out black smoke due to the load. Injector pumps are typically matched to the engine such that black smoke is minimal at even extreme loading (hot-rodding execpted). Black smoke at sudden throttle opening is due mainly to turbo lag than anything else. Just my thoughts, hope it helps.
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