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jdemaris
07-16-2003 10:01:45
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Re: JD 300 fuel priming issue. Pics in gallery in reply to Gator, 07-15-2003 19:32:27
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How are you checking the fuel flow from the transfer pump? I ask because if it has the original hand-primer on the side, and that's how your're checking it - it's a bad test. Often the transfer-pump actuating arm (that runs on the engine camshaft) gets worn to a point where it won't pump fuel - yet the hand primer will still make the pump work fine. So, if you have a hand-primer, do not use it to test the pump. Test it with the engine cranking. If you're past this point, and you're sure the fuel is getting to the injector pump with the engine cranking, and you're sure the electric solenoid is working, the pump should prime itself. To be sure the solenoid is not causing trouble, you can loosen some injector lines and then pull the top cover (with the solenoid) off the pump. Then crank it. With the top cover off, the injector pump will be in" run" position. You should see fuel dripping out of the lines you loosened. Don't do this without loosening lines, otherwise it might start and you might not know how to shut it off. If it still won't pump fuel with the cover off, there is a long list of things that might be causing the problem, and they're all inside the injector pump. It has its own internal low pressure vane-type transfer pump and regulator, a metering valve, a delivery valve, a leaf-spring that determines maximun fuel delivery,a cam ring, a plastic governor weight retaing ring, etc, any of which might need repair. The head and rotor, which is the fuel-distributing section of the pump must also be mirror smooth. When it gets scored, often the injector pump will deliver fuel cold but won't do so at cranking speed when hot. If, when you have the cover off the pump, you see little black things that look like mouse turds, than the governor weight-retaining ring is probably shattered.
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