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Clooney or John T carb problems

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jim

07-03-2003 05:53:04




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I am still having trouble with the 37 A carb. I have cleaned all the passages with the drill bits, checked for leaks with the lp bottle, replaced spark plugs, replaced the plug wires with the correct type, and I have a good spark form the mag. I have to run it with the choke about 1/4 to 1/3 closed. The idle needle is 3/4 turn out and the load needle has to be almost all the way closed. If I open the load needle it will start to exhaust black smoke and die. If I open the choke all the way it dies. I have plenty of gas going to the carb also and it is new gas. The needle and seat close off when the float is raised, and the float is not hitting the side anywhere. In your last reply to me you said something about a vent on the carb. Where is that located? The only other thing I can think of checking is the float level. This is a #18 carb and the book doesn't say where to set the float level at. I hope that I am not being a pain but this has really got me stumped. Thank you for all your past help and I check the discussion form daily and run copies of some of the answers of interesting topics that you two reply to for further referance. My Grandpa could answer these questions and now that he is gone the information went to the grave with him. You two should write a book. I enjoy reading your comments and absorbing your knowledge. Keep up the good work!! Thanks, JIm

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Clooney

07-04-2003 06:19:17




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 Re: Clooney or John T carb problems in reply to jim, 07-03-2003 05:53:04  
Jim, Duane pretty well covered the bowl vent & float setting. Duane gave you the FUEL LEVEL & not the actual float height so keep that in mind. The method he gave you is by far the most accurate as that takes fuel weight into consideration. Personally I just set the float top parallel with the top of the float bowl & call it good.

~A couple of things come to mind on your problem, a plugged bowl vent is at the top of the list.

~Did you pull the main nozzle & clean ALL the little holes in the side of it? If not that would be the place to start. Did you put the spring back under the main nozzle when assembling the carb? Does the main nozzle have a nice square top on it? If the top of the main nozzle is distorted that will really foul up the load metering.

~If the bowl vent is open, the main nozzle is clean & not damaged & the spring is there. You either missed a hole or passage when you cleaned the carb, OR,, you stuck one of those drill bits is a place you shouldn't have. Those drill bits are only for the main passages & if one is used in an idle orifice, or needle valve hole serious carb damage can result & it will never meter correctly. There are a lot of archive posts on this board that say to clean ALL the holes and passages in those DLTX carbs with long # xx drill bits & I'm afraid that has caused some carb damage..

~Not sure if I sent you a carb cleaning diagram, if I didn't. give me an E-Mail & I will send you one....

JDClooney@aol.com

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Lee

07-03-2003 23:36:46




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 Re: Clooney or John T carb problems in reply to jim, 07-03-2003 05:53:04  
You've got good advice on the float level but I wonder about your adjustment attempts. Somewhere between 'choke on' and load needle 'in' there should be a place at fast idle where you can turn out the load needle while opening the choke to wide open position and it should not smoke. Idle mixture and load mixture are somewhat inter-related and I have been in a similar situation where I couldn't seem to adjust the carb to where it would run without the choke at least partially on.

Be aware that the choke on these puppies is very powerful, so powerful that one really doesn't want to apply full choke at any time as there is little to no bypass around that choke plate. Open the load needle till it smokes a little and then open the choke till it starts to stumble, then more needle and then more choke. Use two hands if you have to in order to keep her running. Providing nothing is wrong with the carb or gas flow you should be able to do this.

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Duane Larson

07-03-2003 18:10:59




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 Re: Clooney or John T carb problems in reply to jim, 07-03-2003 05:53:04  
jim,
It appears Mr. Clooney and John T. are busy (everyone deserves a break now and then!), so I can answer your specific questions and they can chime in when they are available.

The vent you refer to is the bowl vent. It's purpose is to keep air pressure balanced between the fuel in the bowl and the venturi pressure. If the vent system is plugged, it results in additional fuel flowing into the fuel bowl during operation.

If you remove the bowl and turn the carb upside down, the bowl vent is the hole about 3/8" dia, which has a hole drilled into the side of it near its bottom. It vents through the (#24 drill) passage in the right side of the carb when you look in the choke end. These passages associated with the vent system must not be plugged. Be sure they are clean, and remove the largest brass plug on the top of the carb - that will allow you access to clean part of the passage system. It is not so much of a problem on the DLTX18 as it is on the new carbs (DLTX67-73), which use two brass vents with holes in them to fill the 3/8 hole. The restriction is there to improve operation on rough ground, and they plug up easier than the old system on the 18.

Your float level is important, and the fuel level should be 5/8-3/4" from the top of the fuel bowl. The easiest way to check this is to purchase a hose barb with a 1/8" thread and some clear tubing to slip over the barb. Remove the bowl drain and install the barb. Hold the tubing alongside the bowl, and let fuel flow into the bowl. This will show you the true level of fuel in the bowl - you can adjust the fuel level by (carefully) bending the float arm.

Hope this helps in the interim.

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