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Clutch lever on model A

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bob

06-14-2003 15:05:44




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i have a 44 A the clutch works real good but when im driving around the clutch lever flops all over the place...anyone know what part needs replacing to make it stay put???




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chris in wi

06-15-2003 13:33:26




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 Re: clutch lever on model A in reply to bob, 06-14-2003 15:05:44  
Only some of the "A"s had a brass sleeve-type bushing that went in between the clutch and the pin. If yours didn't, buying the sleeve won't help because it won't fit. There's probably way too much wear on the pin and clutch lever for that anyway. I had the same problem you did when I bought my "A." I'm lucky enough to have a machinist a mile down the road who has three hart-parrs, a bunch of deers, two rumleys, and is a local institution for tractor restorers. I replaced the two small pivot pins then took the various parts of the linkage (including the pulley brake, which flopped around too) to him and had him build up, mill down, and drill out all the parts. Tight as the day it came off the line now.

Once you get everything tight, be sure to keep it well-lubed.


Chris

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daveo

06-14-2003 20:42:26




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 Re: clutch lever on model A in reply to bob, 06-14-2003 15:05:44  
Same problem with my 1940 �A�. Any preferred sources for the various pins & bushings or do I bribe my buddy with a lathe in his shop? :)



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F-I-T

06-14-2003 21:08:38




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 Re: Re: clutch lever on model A in reply to daveo, 06-14-2003 20:42:26  
Daveo:

When I did my 70D last year, the pivot bolt, pivot bolt bushing, and pins were all available from Deere. I did not check on the yokes. I elected to weld them and re-drill.

Frank



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John T (Yo Frank)

06-15-2003 07:33:11




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 Re: Re: Re: clutch lever on model A in reply to F-I-T, 06-14-2003 21:08:38  
Yo Frank, when you weld and re drill, what rod do you use????? ??? 6011, 6013, 7014, 7018????? (Thats all I keep around the shop) Are you a Welding PLUS a Hydraulics Guru??? John T



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F-I-T

06-15-2003 07:49:25




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: clutch lever on model A in reply to John T (Yo Frank), 06-15-2003 07:33:11  
No, I just fiddle. My welding is the not pretty but strong type.

On light duty cast iron, I heat the iron up red hot with my torch and then wire weld it. I've been doing that for some time on light duty cast iron. If it's good and hot, it seems to take to the base metal just fine. I repaired an old cast iron vise the same way.

If I need to weld cast iron for strength, I use my Henrob Gas torch, some cast iron flux, and some pure cast iron rod (actually I like to use old piston rings!). It comes out nice.

Frank

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F-I-T

06-14-2003 17:11:06




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 Re: clutch lever on model A in reply to bob, 06-14-2003 15:05:44  
third party image

Bob:

There are several pins and a bolt that could be so worn as need replacing. The holes in the fork, lever, and yokes can be welded shut and re-drilled. The pivot bolt and bushing normally wear badly.

Under $30, you should be all fixed up.

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John T

06-14-2003 17:07:29




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 Re: clutch lever on model A in reply to bob, 06-14-2003 15:05:44  
Bob, I hate them loose flop all over creation clutch levers also. The first things to look at are the bushing in the clutch lever bottom pivot and the bolt it pivots on. The brass bushign in the clutch lever pivot is probably long completely gone. Also, that bolt it pivots on gets worn down very bad causign all that slop. You can buy a new bushign for the clutch lever plus a new pivot bolt, and thats my first guess what you need. Additional slop can develop in all those little connector pins, but they dont seem to wear out as bad as the above.

Ol John T Nordhoff

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Jim

06-17-2003 21:06:31




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 Re: Re: clutch lever on model A in reply to John T, 06-14-2003 17:07:29  
If you cant find a bushoing for you clutch Lever I have taken a piece of copper tubing and put in the hole in theclutch lever this works well



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