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Henry, I have no idea about that particular coil, but I can tell you the low voltage primary side of similar type coils should be very low resistance which might appear as a near to dead short on a meter that isnt zeroed in right or not very accurate. It's a relatively short piece of copper wire and may just be an ohm or two anyway, which could look like a short almost. The high volage seconday side, however, between the output to the plug and ground could be several thousand ohms or so. If the primary is 1 to 2 ohms or less and the secondary is a few thousand and neither is shorted out, I would suspect a bad set of points before the coil being the cause of no spark myself. Even if a coil passes these simple low voltage continuity checks, however, they can still be bad and breaking down at high voltage. Be sure the points are gapped and are not burned or pitted or carboned up (if so replace them) and are opening the correct gap. The condensor should appear as an open circuit to DC. Also be sure the kill switch wire or any connections or wires to it are NOT grounded out, that kills the ignition. Will it spark with the kill wire removed????? ?? I have had those type ignitions not work and fix them merely by cleanign and sanding or wire brushing the flywheels magnet free of rust, cleaning/polishing or filing the points and gapping them on high cam, and adjusting the distance (usually closer) between the coil and flywheel (I dont have your specs, but they need to be very close together). Be sure the plug is good and maybe try a replacement and with its wire attached spin her over fast to see if the plug produces a good spark. It could be a bad coil of course, but if it shows continuity, check the points first (clean/polish/gap or replace) and then clean/sand/wire brush the flywheels magnet and use a known good plug and you may be up n running. Let me know John T Nordhoff in Indiana
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