70D

Thanks as always 70D

Thanks as always 70D

70D, here is a picture of the late 720D oil slinger cover. If you have this cover [right behind the flywheel] you have the late setup & the flywheel position on the crankshaft splines controls the crankshaft end play.
~The earlier 720D's & 70D's used a different cover [I have F1928R penciled in my notes but that could be the part number not the casting number]. The early slinger cover uses a big thrust plate between two thrust washers under the flywheel spacer & the gaskets between the slinger cover & timing gear cover controls the crankshaft end play. [the flywheel is pushed on tight]
~With you having a taper-lock flywheel, the flywheel casting number might not be valid way to tell because I'm not sure if they use either flywheel to build the taper-lock or try to keep the correct flywheel with the proper serial number tractor.
~If you pull that slinger cover be sure to mark it's position first as the oil drain hole must go back in the same place..

70D:

Here's a diagram out of the 70D parts book. Now as Clooney said, you might have an upgraded set of parts, but.....

After you take the flywheel off, you'll see a cover around that spacer. It has 5 bolts in it. That's the thrust cover. It is shimmed so that the outer thrust washer, then the thrust plate, then the inner thrust washer together as a stack is .005-.010" less thick than the distance created by the shims under the thurst cover to the shoulder on the crank where the thruist plate rests. That's what controls the endplay. If you add shims, the crank thrust plate can move side to side between the thrust washers. If you let the crank slip to right, that inner thrust washer can fall down, and it will likely lead you mis-set the endplay shims. Then you run the tractor for a while, it crunches that fallen inner thrust washer to dust, and you have now a bunch of endplay. The crank starts to hammer left and right with each impluse, and high dollar damage generally occurs.

That's not the entire explanation, but that should get you a better understanding. Now if you have a "720" set up, there picture is a bit different, and the flywheel position sets the endplay, but the idea is the same.

BTW, that space you are looking at that is driven by the crankshaft is just that a spacer/oil slinger.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

Thanks as always 70D

No, what I meant is that if you let the crankshaft slide back and forth while you are taking the flywheel off and then reinstalling it, you stand a chance of the thurst washer slipping off of its shoulder (falling out of position). This will then affect your endplay measurement, and since the thrust washer is now out of position, it will be destroyed as the engine runs.

Since you have the flywheel off now, you can take the thrust cover off, then slide the spacer off and one of the thrust washers will come off with the thrust cover. Then slide the thrust plate off and that will reveal the inner thrust washer.

Now, to do a perfect job of setting the endplay on the old style set up, you make a spacer out of pipe that simulates the flywheel, assemble everything using the pipe spacer instead of the flywheel, tighten the outer big steel nut (which you might not have with a taper lock) and this pulls everything together. Now you can measure the endplay and know whether you have to add or deduct shims to get it back to limits.

Keep studying it until you understand it. This is the one single setting that determines overall survivability of a '70' Diesel. Many people never get this right.

Frank