430T electrical diagram (... guru Clooney?)

My grandpa's 430T had it's battery and battery cables removed. It has been idle for at least ten years. I hooked the 6V negative to the chasis and the positive to the starter. I replaced the plugs after inserting a squirt of oil. The engine encouragingly turns but no lights glow and no firing seems to happen.

What have I done wrong?
Does battery positive go to the chasis like Ford?
What do you suggest?
Where can I get a wiring diagram?

Thanks in advance to everyone.

(A) ELECTRICAL

1) The tractor came from the factory with the batterys positive to ground, so unless thigns were changed, I suggest you start that way for now at least.

2) Now, for battery power to get to the lights and ignition etc., its non groundeed terminal has to be connected to the ignition and light switch, and the usual place is a 12 gauge or so wire at the starter terminal (where the big battery cable is connected) cuz its connected to the batterys non grounded terminal. I have seen that wire fed direct from teh battery post itself however, but regardless where from, you have to have battery power to and through the ammeter and any fuses, then to the switch to make the lighs and ignition work.

3) The usual route for battery power is from the starter post or battery, to and through the ammeter (its like a short circuit but it measures the current flow passign through it) then via any fuses to the lights and ignition switch, then when ON to the ignition coil and lights.

4) If no lights are working (assuming bulbs are good and they are grounded) and theres no power to the ignition coil when the ignition is turned on, you may have a missing or bad wire to the ammeter from the battery and/or from the ammeter to the switch, or a blown fuse. Take a test lamp and with one of its wires grounded, connect it to the fuse and switches power input terminal (Battery) and igniton and lights when thay are on, and trace back to where power is present or lost. Again, it has to be present at the ungrounded battery terminal, then to the ammeter on BOTH sides, then to and through any fuses, then to and through the ignition and lights IF they are turned on.

5) Now, once you have power to and through the ammeter, and to and through any fuses, and to the switches input terminal, the switch itself still has to be good so when you turn on lighs they come on and if you turn on the ignition, power is fed to the coil.

IGNITION (To make plugs fire)

6) When the ignition is on, if there's power to the switch and its good, the coils high (NOT to distributor) side should show battery voltage using a test lamp. Shes never gonna fire until you at least have power to the coils high side. NOW, if the coils high side has battery voltage present, place your test lamp on the coils low (to distributor) side (other lil terminal) and with the ignition on as you turn the engine over, a test lamp should flash on and off. Shes never gonna fire unles a test lamp there goes on and off, thats what happens if the points are good and open and close properly.

TRY TO VERIFY POWER FROM THE BATTERY, TO AND THROUGH THE AMMETER, AND TO AND THROUGH ANY FUSES, AND TO AND THROUGH THE SWITCH TO THE COILS HIGH SIDE AND SEE IF A TEST LAMP ON THE COILS LOW SIDE FLASHES ON AND OFF AS ENGINE IS CRANKED AND POST BACK THE RESULTS. Then if she still wont fire the plugs, I will guide you through a detailed step by step troubleshooting procedure, or read my article on the same subject in last August Green Magazine or I can e mail it to you, cuz it gets long and detailed an no use to proceed until we see if you need it.

OTHER IGNITION TESTS

If all the above is good and the test lamp is on at the coils high side and flashes on and off on the low side as the engine is cranked, the plugs should be firign if the coil and condensor and wires and cap and rotor are good. To test for spark, remove the plugs but have their wire atatched and their sides grounded to the frame, and turn on the ignition and crank her over and both plugs should produce a good visible blue spark. ARE THEY????? ????? ???? If not, remove the coil wire from the distributor leaving it attached out the coils top, and place it to within 1/8 inch from the tractors metal frame
somewhere, and again crank her and see if a spark jumps from the wires end to the tractor. if it sparks there but not at the lugs, you have a cap or rotor or plug wire or plug problem, but the rest of the ignition is okay YAYYYYY YYYYY.

IF NO SPARK ANYWHERE, POST BACK. IF THERE IS SPARK AT BOTH PLUGS AND SHE WOTN START, ITS TIME TO TAKE A FUEL FLOW TEST AND SEE IF SHES GETTIGN GAS. To save time, I have cut and pasted my standard fuel flow test below, but it may not all apply to your tractor, its for the DLTX carbs. HOWEVER, it will still let us know if the carb is gettign gas.

When she cranks, is there any smoke or vapor coming out the stack????? ?? If you remove the plugs after cranking, are they wet or bone dry??? Does it have plenty of clean fresh water free gas????

Heres my standard fuel flow test and agian, it may not all apply.

1) With the gas on at the valve or sediment bowl, open the carb bowls lower drain cock or plug and insure a good steady stream of gas flows out approx 1/16 inch for a couple minutes.

2) If not, remove the fuel line where it attaches to the carb and insure a good strong flow of gas is there the size of the lines inside diameter.

3) If there was NOT good flow the size of the gas lines ID, remove the glass sediment bowl and see if the 2 lil horizontal holes at the top are open and allow good flow which fills the glass bowl. If NOT, there may be rust or crud in the inlet pipe or mesh screen or crud in the tanks bottom.

FUEL FLOW SUMMARY

You have to have good flow at the tanks bottom, then through the inlet pipe or mesh screen, then out the side holes to fill the glass sediment bowl, then through the fuel line, then through the carbs inlet strainer, then through the needle valve and seat, then finally, it has to fill and maintain the carbs bowl to the right level via operation of the float and needle valve and seat.

CHARGING SYSTEM, Once you ger her running, post back if she dotn charge, and I will guide you through my standard generator troubleshootuing tips.

SUMMARY, use a test lamp and the wirign diagram and verify power is present where I noted. If so, then do the spark tests at the coil and plugs. If they dont fire, post back, but if they do and she wotn start, proceeedd to the fuel flow tests and post back or e mail me your findings.

Good Luck n God Bless the USA

John T Nordhoff in Indiana

~I guess you will just have to start with the basics...

~Your 430 came from the factory with a positive ground [+ post of the battery hooked to the tractor frame] but it will start & run either polarity, it will just need to match the generator charging direction to charge correctly [more on that later]. ~We have to start somewhere so lets start at the starter..When you hooked the battery cable up did you also hook up a red wire at the starter stud? If not, you won't have any power to the ignition circuit or lights. If you don't have that red wire [it doesn't have to be red] you will have to run a wire from the starter stud to the non-load side of the ammeter.

~If you do have that wire hooked to the starter post then your next step is to use a test light or voltmeter & check for 5+ volts [or the 6 volt test light to light] when hooked between the ignition coil's [non distributor side] & a good clean frame ground WITH THE IGNITION SWITCH TURNED ON. If you have voltage at the coil then suspect oxidized points [a common problem after a tractor sits for an extended period]. You will either have to clean the points or replace them.

~If you don't have power at the coil then suspect a blown or corroded dash fuse, or failing ignition switch, or open in one of the power feed wires, or a failed voltage regulator. To keep this response from getting real confusing & hard to follow [post back if you don't have power to the coil & we'll focus on the power feed circuit as it is a little different than the other Dubuque's]... For now you can run the tractor by just using a jumper wire from the starter big battery cable stud to the non distributor side of the ign coil, that will power the coil & allow it to function..Just remove the wire to stop the tractor.

~If you do have power to the coil then pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap & hold it within 3/16"of the engine block & crank the engine, if you get a bluish spark your ignition system is probably functioning & your problem lies elsewhere. If you get a spark at the coil wire re-install it then pull a spark plug & reconnect it to the plug wire & lay it on the block & crank the engine [coil powered up] & see if you get a spark there, if so, your problem is probably fuel related.

~Fuel system flow check...

~Turn the fuel on & open the carb's bottom drain plug/petcock, you should have a pencil sized stream of fuel flow out for AT LEAST 30 SECONDS, if you don't you will have to find & repair the blockage. Start at the fuel line leading to the carb & see if you have fuel there. If you have fuel flowing out of the fuel line but not the carb suspect a stuck carb float or plugged fuel inlet strainer in the carb [if that's the problem post back for details on that inlet strainer]. ~There's more to be said but this covers the basics & will get you started, so do some of the above tests & post back with the direction it leads you in. If we keep these posts fairly short it will be much less confusing than trying to cover every conceivable problem area & once the basics are covered we can track your problem down.

~Since you have hooked the battery it up negative ground & it probably was positive ground to begin with you probably should polarize the generator if you get it running. Seeing as we don't even know if it has a voltage regulator in it now you can polarize the generator by using a jumper wire & grounding the generator's [F] post {smaller of the two} THEN with the [F] post still grounded just jump battery power from the starter's power stud to the generator's [A] post {larger of the two} & you should get a spark, if so it's polarized & ready to charge [if the system is functional]..We'll tackle that problem later if it doesn't....

~It usually helps to print this post out & take it out to the tractor with you.....

I sent you a link ofr wiring doagrams. That should get you something to study.

If that tractor has not been changed over since the factory, it is positive ground. That's a good place to start. Then see that you have 6 volts at the switch, coil, and points. You might want to start with new points, condensor, and plugs and possibly wires if they're all too old.

You could have other problems related to sitting so long, like dirt in the tank, varnish in the carb, etc., but getting spark is the first hurdle.

You can find all the JD wiring diagrams at www .deerehunters .com

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855