Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver

Attention Forum Users: On the 28th of December 2023 at 9:00am Central Time, we will be taking the forums down for maintenance while we prepare the new forums for your use. Please click here for more information.

Discussion Forum
:

47B Is it charging or not??

Welcome Guest, Log in or Register
Author 
David

05-27-2003 16:16:46




Report to Moderator

Have a nice 47B with a new generator, regulator and ammeter and battery. But ammeter never registers that its charging. Thought it was a bad regulator, but no difference after I installed a new one. Seems like wiring is the only culprit left in the loop - right? Could it be charging even if the ammeter doesn't register it is when the engine running? I mowed for two hours on Sunday and still have plenty of juice in the battery. This is puzzling - need your ideas. I've probably missed a sign somewhere.

[Log in to Reply]   [No Email]
John T (Long Post)

05-27-2003 19:54:51




Report to Moderator
 Re: 47B Is it charging or not?? in reply to David, 05-27-2003 16:16:46  
Good Evening David, I will answer your questions first, then to save time (this is the second long post of the evening) I will post my standard generator/voltage regulator troubleshootign procedure.

1) Yes, it could still be charging. If you turn on the lights with the tractor runnign at idle, and then run her at wide open throttle, if shes charging, the lights should glow noticeably brighter. If you have a voltmeter, not runnimg a 6 volt system should read 6.3 volts and a 12 12.6. If shes charging at wide open throttle, the battery voltage should rise.

2) AMMETER: If you turn on the lights not running, does she swing to discharge????? Does she ever show charge??? The ammeter is basically a short circuit and has to be connected to battery voltage on its high supply side, usually off a wire from the starter post or battery itself. The other (load side) of the ammeter is what powers the lights and ignition and is connected to the BAT terminal on the Voltage Regulator. That side has all the wires to the switch and voltage regulator etc while the other (supply side) only has the wire to the battery. BE SURE YOUR AMMETR IS WIRED THAT WAY.

Although this may be repeated below in my standard troubleshootign guide, is the generator well grounded and is the VR well grounded to the generator. MUST BOTH BE. Is the VR's BAT terminal always hot and have you polArized her once all is wired up????? ? Is she still at positive ground as original??? and is the VR compatible with your ground system???

Heres my standard troubleshooting guide. If I get it done, the July issue of Green Magazine will cover this in much greater detail.

GENERATOR AND VOLTAGE REGULATOR TROUBLESHOOTING:

You first have to have a good battery capable of taking a charge and all the wirign and grounds must be good and in place first. Some people print this and take it to the shop, so try it and let me know how you come out.

1) First, be sure the belt is good and tight and the generator has a good ground to the tractors frame and that the VR has a good ground to the generator. Many problems are caused by a bad ground to the generator or the VR is not well grounded (usually to the gens case). You might run a wire direct from the batterys grounded terminal down to the gen and VR and and connect it to see if thats the problem.

2) There has to be hot full battery voltage present on the VR's BAT terminal so its output can get to and charge the battery. (Use a test lamp or voltmeter to insure that before you go on) The HOT path to get there, is from the battery itself or off the starter post, to and through the ammeter, then down to BAT on the VR.

3) Now if the grounds are good and the VR's BAT terminal is hot, you can finally test the gen and VR to determine which or both are bad. With the tractor running, use a jumper wire and connect the F post out of the generator (smaller of the 2 gen posts) to the generators steel frame ground, and if the ammeter then shows charge, you either have a bad VR or a bad/broken wire connection between the generators F post and the F terminal on the VR.

4) If she still doesnt show charge, leave the F grounded, and then momentarily connect the BAT and ARM (or GEN) on the VR together to see if it shows charge. If she charges then, you have a bad cutout relay inside the VR. If it shows charge only if you connect the VR's BAT terminal direct down to the gens ARM post, the wire is bad (open) between the gens ARM post and the VR's ARM terminal.

5) With the F still grounded and the GEN or ARM on the VR connected to the BAT terminal and if the Gen and VR have good grounds and assuming the BAT terminal is connected to the battery via the ammeter and she still dont charge, its probably a bad generator, cuz you have essentially by passed any bad VR with the tests above.

6) You can also motor test the gen by removing its belt and all its wiring (protect all the wiring so it doesnt short out) and jump wiring the ungrounded bat terminal (i.e. - on a + ground system) to the generators ARM post (larger of 2) and the generator should turn like a motor. A source of such battery power could be the wire from the VR's BAT terminal, as it leads to the battery via the ammeter. If it runs when you do that, then ground out the generators F post and she should slow down slightly. If not, the gens field may be bad. If the gen turns when you apply battery voltage (from the BAT lead or elsewhere) and slows slightly if you ground out the F post, it should generate power fine.

7) For the generator to charge the battery, there has to be a connection between the BAT terminal on the VR to the battery (usually via the ammeter) and test that by using a test light or DC voltmeter and battery voltage should be present on that post ALL THE TIME. If the gens power doesnt reach the battery, it cant ever charge it, and the path is out the ARM post on the Gen, to the GEN or ARM terminal on the VR, through the VR's cut out relay, out to the BAT terminal on the VR, through the ammeter, then to the battery.

8) If she dont charge despite all that and the tests show the gen is bad and NOT the VR because you by passed BOTH the Field and Cutout Relay per the tests above, and the rest of the wiring is good and the gen and VR are grounded properly, heres a few gen troubleshooting tips:

a) Many problems are the brush hold down spring assemblys are rusted and corroded so the brushes are not held down tight against the commutator. Use a wire brush and WD 40 and air etc to clean and free up the hold down spring assemblys so the brushes are held tightly down. If the brushes are not worn down too low and held down tight and she still wont charge, you may have an open field winding or a bad armature or a commutator problem. Post back if you want to repair the generator and maybe I can provide more tips.

9) I assume you have tried to polarize the generator lately??? With the tractor off but all the gen and battery and VR all wired and connected properly, momentarily flash jump a wire from the VR's BAT terminal over to its ARM (or GEN) terminal and you should get a small spark.

Good Luck n God Bless

John T Nordhoff in Indiana

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
Clooney

05-27-2003 19:21:54




Report to Moderator
 Re: 47B Is it charging or not?? in reply to David, 05-27-2003 16:16:46  
David,

~First turn the lights on & see if it shows a discharge, if so your ammeter is probably working.

~Then, MAKE SURE you have battery voltage at the [BAT] terminal on the voltage regulator. [if not find out why].

~If all ok so far run the tractor & place a voltmeter across the battery posts & see if the battery voltage is above 7 volts, if so it is charging & your ammeter is probably wired incorrectly. There should only be one wire hooked to the battery side of the ammeter & that should be the wire running to the starter battery cable stud [or battery non grounded post if it's wired that way]. ALL OTHER LOADS including the regulator battery wire should be hooked to the other ammeter post.

~If all ok per above then leave the voltmeter hooked up across the battery posts & run the tractor at fast idle, Then ground the generator [F] post {smaller of the two}..Does it charge now? [7+ volts] [if so you have a bad regulator ground, or an open in the wire between the regulator [F] terminal & the generator [F] post, or a failed generator.

~If still no charge, leave the [F] post grounded & run a jumper wire from the generator [A] post {larger of the two} to the regulator [BAT] terminal..Does it charge now? [7+ volts], if so you have an open in the wire between the generator [A] post & regulator [BAT] terminal or a failed generator.

~If still no charge, remove the wires from the generator posts but leave the [F] post grounded, then pull the generator belt, then run battery power from the regulator [BAT] terminal to the generator [A] post,,the generator should start to motor, now remove the [F] post ground, it should speed up. If the generator motors & speeds up with the [F] post un-grounded your generator is probably working.

~Post back with any questions or findings.....

~It also helps to print this page out & take it out to the tractor when working on the charging system....

[Log in to Reply]  [No Email]
[Options]  [Printer Friendly]  [Posting Help]  [Return to Forum]   [Log in to Reply]

Hop to:


TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Copyright © 1997-2023 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy