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B carb

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john n

05-15-2003 21:21:51




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i am finishing a restoration on a 1950 jd b. i started the project with the tractor in parts, but most everything was there. after starting the tractor and having some problems with the way it was running i found that the carb i got with the tractor is a dltx18 (an early all fuel A carb.) what effect would this have on the way it runs? it seems to idle fairly well but at higher rpm it pops and backfires from the exhaust almost like it's slightly out of time. could this be causing all of my problems, or could i have more than one problem? i was thinking i could have been a tooth off when i installed the governer gear housing back on the crank case, but i didn't want to start tearing things back apart if the carb is the root of my problem. my B is gas only. any response is greatly appreciated.

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John T (Long Post)

05-16-2003 07:51:22




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 Re: b carb in reply to john n, 05-15-2003 21:21:51  
Mornin John, Lets start with the timing to be sure its close, then we will talk about the carburetor:

TIMING:

To see if you got the governor gear in time: It turns at the same direction and RPM as the crankshaft. When the Left Hand Impulse timing mark on the flywheel is in the 3 o clock position in line with a mark on the tractors side(assuming the crank to cam and flywheel are in correct time), thats also when the left hand (flywheel side) piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC), the governor shafts end female drive slot, behind the mag or distributor that drives it, should be flat horizontal. If not, you may have the governor a tooth or so off. Then to adjust the start timing, with the 2 bolts loose, rotate the mag (if you have a mag) CCW to advance or CW to retard. If its a mag, you should hear her snap to fire just when the Left Hand Impulse timing mark passes by the line at the 3 o clock position.

GENERAL INGNITION:

Remove the plugs and with the wires attached and the plugs side against ground, see if BOTH are producign a good visible blue spark, not a thin barely visible wimpy yellow one, with the ignition on and the tractor cranking over.

TO BE SAFE: I would inspect the ignition points and check their gap. (regardless if mag or distributor) If they are only gray oxide coated but otherwise good and smooth, you migth clean/polish the oxide off to get back to their shiny silver coat. If badly burned or blackened or pitted ot carboned up, replace them. Also, clean the cap and rotor to remove any dust or oil and check for cracks or carbon paths. Be sure the plug wires arent leaky or cracked or frayed and maybe try a fresh set of Autolit 388 plugs. Use wire core, not auto suppressor type plug wires.

CARBURETOR:

If she idles good but cuts out at at higher RPM's it could be:

Does she black smoke when that happens?? Does choking her a bit help??0? Will it run okay if the choke is out some??? a) The load needle on top of the carb isnt adjusted right. Try tweaking it (out to richen, in to lean her, initial setting is 3/4 to 1 out) and see if it cures the problem; if not

b) The carbs internal main center vertical brass nozzle could have some restrictions. If so, it would have to be pulled and it plus all its lil side holes cleaned out. There could also be restrictions elsewhere in the carb.

c) The carbs float level could be too low or there isnt enough fuel flow gettign into the carbs bowl due to either seat/needle restrictions, side inlet strainer restrictions, or restrictions in the fuel supply and sediment bowl. Heres my standard fuel supply test which you may as well run to insure sufficient flow into the carbs bowl.

1) With the gas turned on, open the carbs lower drain cock and be sure theres a continuos flow of gas about 1/16 or near pencil lead size for at least 2 to 3 minutes; if not,

2) Remove the carbs inlet fuel line and insure a good strong gas flow is there the size of the lines Inside Diameter (ID); If so, there may be a restriction in the carbs inlet side strainer or needle/seat. You can remove the top cap nut on the strainers top and clean it all out, but you probably need a new top gasket. If not good flow there, remove the sediment bowl and be sure the 2 lil top side holes allow good gas flow in a stream which fills the glass bowl. If not, theres crud up inside the tanks inlet pipe or the screen mesh (if it had one) up inside the tank is clogged. If the fuel delivery tests all pass and adjustign the top load needle dont help, and choking does help her run better, theres a good chance the carbs passages or main center vertical brass nozzle is clogged or the float level is set too low.

TO BE SAFE: You might inspect the air cleaners lower bowl for water AND ALSO YOU MUST HAVE CLEAN FRESH WATER FREE GAS, cuz bad gas or water in it can cause your problems.

SUMMARY: I would be sure the gas is clean and water free, no restrictions in the air cleaner, good gas flow out the carbs lower drain cock (if not do the flow tests above), check the points and their gap and cap and rotor and plugs and wires per above, check the governor timing per above, adjust the load needle to see if it helps.

Do the easiest simple thigns first like adjust the load needle and check the points and plugs and cap and wires, cuz theres a good chance thats all is wrong.

The A carb isnt what I recommend, but it should still make her run betetr than you described. You might make sure the carbs choke butterfly is tight on its shaft and is tight and correct to where the external adjuster is.

What type of ignition you have, mag or distributro and what kind????? ??

Good Luck n God Bless,let me know what happens.

John T Nordhoff in Indiana

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JDBob

05-16-2003 06:08:35




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 Re: b carb in reply to john n, 05-15-2003 21:21:51  
John,
The DLTX18 would probably work fine, I've put model A carbs. on B's with no problems. I'd start with a fresh set of plugs, even if the one's in it are new, I've seen new plugs perform poorly.
If you have a set of Champion plugs in it chunk them and get you a good set of AC Delco C87 plugs.

What kind of shape is the Distributor in (Points Condition and gap) also plug gap?

After you check the previous; If it idles good, and has trouble at high RPM my guess would be either that the carb has a passage way partially stopped up, OR you have a fuel supply problem. (assuming you have tried adjusting the carb)Try adj the load needle with the tractor at fast idle. Turn it down until the tractor loses power then back open 1/2 to 1 turn.
As Clooney usually says, Open the fuel bowl drain on the carb, and see if you have a good pencil size stream for 20-30 sec.

That's where I'd start looking?

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