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Starting an idled tractor

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K Shelton

05-15-2003 10:55:55




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I have a 4020 that hasn't been run in about 10 years that I need to put back into service. I've ordered new batteries and plan on draining/replacing the old diesel, checking the injectors, and squirting some oil in the cylinders. Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated. I've also hear that changing the injectors is a bear - any shortcuts? Thanx




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G-MAN

05-15-2003 15:38:32




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 Re: starting an idled tractor in reply to K Shelton, 05-15-2003 10:55:55  
Changing the nozzles isn't all that difficult providing they're not too badly seized into the head. If they have many hours on them at all, you'll likely find the opening pressures to be below spec, necessitating a rebuild of those or purchasing new or rebuilt nozzles. Removing the hood will give you more room to work, so start there. I'd start hitting them with a shot of penetrating oil every day or therebouts to get a head start on removing them. You shouldn't need to remove the actual injection lines (they can be a bear to reseal to the pump head, especially if you're using the steel sealing washers) but you will need to remove the bleed line. After that, it's just a matter of removing the hold-down screws and pulling them out. Rotating them back and forth will help with removal, and if they're really tight, you can get under the inlet with a heel bar to "help" them out. Clean the bores before installing the new nozzles - a gun cleaning brush of the proper size works well. Put a dab of oil on the carbon seals (the white ring at the bottom) when installing the new or rebuilt nozzles, and a little anti-sieze on the rest of the nozzle won't hurt anything. Be careful pushing them in, as you can damage the carbon seals, which will result in a compression leak. I'd also recommend changing the bleed-off boots and clamps while you're there. There is a newer style clamp that is much easier to move than the old-style single-wire jobs. Well worth the little bit that they cost. Oiling the cylinders is a good idea while you're there. You might also consider a compression check to verify that you don't have a stuck valve from the tractor sitting so long, but I doubt if you'll have a problem there. I'd warm the tractor up good and then change the hydraulic oil and filter, as there's bound to be some condensation in there. Also check your belts and hoses for dry-rot and cracking. Changing the coolant would also probably be a good idea. Feel free to email me if I can be of any more help.

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