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Neil, I dont know beans about your particular mower, but know some general stuff about them which might apply. One, if the starter turns when jumped direct, but the key or switch dont cause her to turn, its usually the solenoid is bad or the key or start switch is bad or there may be a bad connection or a blown fuse (if it has one) feeding the switch, or there are safety switches that arent working, like the seat sat on or the clutch depressed or the blade off etc etc. I usually first test right at the start relay by jumping a wire from the solenoids big hot battery side post (NOT the post to the starter) over to the little activation terminal (the little one, not either big side ones) and if she starts then, the key or switch is bad or a wire to it is open or a blown fuse or a failed or mis adjusted safety switch (seat, clutch, blades off, tranny in neutral). If jumping the solenoid dont make her engage, assuming theres good hot power gettign to the battery side of the solenoid, the solenoid is bad and Ive seen plenmty of them go bad. I usually just replace them with the older Ford type 12 volt starter solenoid and Ive never had one of them go bad and they are cheap also. Now, if she cranks but dont spark cuz the plug isnt firing, you need to look at what types of kill or off switches are wired to the engine, often there near the throttle and governor assembly. (many have a lil wire there that if its grounded, it kills the spark) There are all sorts of safety kill switches that if arent workign right it kills the spark, but if they are on the seat (gotta be sitting) or on clutch or brake pedals (gotta be down to start) I cant be for sure. Needless to say, theres all sorts of safety switches to prevent the solenoid circuit from engaging or to kill the engine if seats arent sat on or clutches depressed etc etc, so try and find them. Its probably a bad safety switch or a bad solenoid, but you just gotta use a 12 v test lamp and trace them all out. Ol John T
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