Baker valve questions.

Mike:

I have a 45W on my '70'D, and I used a twin-spool, mast mounted valve for the lift and hyd. dump. Since you have a Baker valve installed, you could rig something like this and have use of your hitch while using the loader.

I'll have to take your word on not removing the pipes from the Powr-Trol, but I'd think you'd just about have to pull them loose so that you could adequately clean the mating surfaces of the old gasket shellac. I know the Powr-Trol units I've had off needed a lot of work to get those surfaces really clean and ready for the fresh gasket.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

Of course you don't have to remove the Powr-Trol lines. I could have walked outside and confirmed this, but I didn't take the time !

Thanks to DaveH for correcting me, too. I think I was thinking of those times I had to remove the rear housing for lift cylinder rebuild.

Sorry again Mike. You were right, and I was very wrong !

Frank

Is this so that you can use the rockshaft at the same time ? Just curious.

You could tap the Hi/Lo pressure lines that run from your governor mounted pump to the Powr-Trol unit for pressure and return for a valve on your loader without using a Baker Valve, but a Baker valve is probably not a bad way to go.

I've never installed one myself, but basically you remove the Powr-Trol unit (about 6 bolts), the hi/lo pressure pipes, then install, with poper gaskets, the Baker valve between the rear cover where the Powr-Trol had been mounted, and the Powr-Trol box. You "sandwich" it between the Rear housing and the P-trol box. The output is one the side, with a lever on the other.

I'd say the toughest part will be getting the tubing loose at the P-trol box. Take your time. A little propane torch heat helps. Replace any o-rings you come across.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

To answer your question Chris about how much these bring, I've seen a couple of them sell in the $60 - $70 range. I took mine off of a tractor that I used to have and kept it to put on my 50.

Dave