|
Hey Mike, I got the e mail and diagram of how you have it wired. I see you have her negative ground (for the alternator) and the 6 volt non ballasted coil wired as neg ground which is how I would wire it. HOWEVER, you should put that 20A Fuse circuit wire over there on the OTHER side of the ammeter NOT the same side as your red wire which is the battery voltage supply. The ONLY wire on the left ammeter post should be the battery supply circuit so all your loads (including the alternator) are all on the right. The way you have it wired, the ammeter doesnt measure the current going (out the battery) to your ignition switch and lights. Also, if the voltmeter were wired up there to the ignition switch where you have the (I) wire, it wont be a current draw on the battery when the tractior is settign turned off. It will only be on and work that way when the tractors ignition is turned on. While it draws little current, the way you have it wired it will trickle discharge the battery over a long period of time as its ALWAYS a load connected to the battery regardless if the tractor is on or off. Swap that fuse circuit to the other ammeter post and swap the voltmeter wire up there with the ignition switches I terminal, and I give her a clean bill of health. Best Wishes Ol John T PS, I dont suppose that tractor has either an extra starter solenoid (I) terminal or a mechanical start switch extral lil side terminal does it??? If so, on tractors that do, that terminal is hot ONLY when the engine cranks and its connected to the coil or low (non battery) side of the ballst so you get full battery voltage on the coil only when cranking to give a better spark when starting.
| 
