530 carberator

Do you measure the float level from the seam/ flat flange in the middle to the bowl seating surface the kit said 0.5" is this right?

The reason I ask is that it runs very well but runs out of fuel, I'm thinking it is one of three things, the float level is wrong and it isn't keeping up, the float is sticking and I'm running out of fuel, I got the wrong kit and the float valve/ seat are too small and I am running out of fuel. I got the kitt from Polk and now I have noted it does not say for 530 it does list the 50 and , well I can't remember right now but it did not say 530, I also noted tonight it did not say DLTX 68 wich is the brass # on my Carb (is that the right one?) it had two other DLTX numbers that are illuding me right now. any thoughts here does the 50 use the same carb?

This is how it runs Quick start, close choke within 30 to 40 sec of start. run down the drive up the drive( 1/4 mile) starts to break up ( no smoke) pull choke runs good 1 to 2 minutes breaks up will hold 700 to 900 rpm with choke on 1 cylinder ( no smoke ... I assume no fuel) addjust air mx jets no help wind in and out load screw no help. Shut off tractor, restart almost immediately will run well just like at the beginning if you pull choke it will smoke and load up drive around a few minutes then breaks up all over again. seems to happen quicker when warm 165 170 deg. water temp

I have good flow into the fuel strainer, and into carberator also cleaned strainer in carb. There are no leaks on intake and the heat valve is seated in the cold position.

The last time I had it in the middle of a fit I thougt maybe some sort of bowl leak letting air in so I loosened the bowl slightly while running to rotate it a little to get a better seat and it took off running beter I assume I might have kncked the float valve free and it started running well. is there a special position for the bowl that could cause this problem?

Then I broke the stem holding the bowl on I think it might have been cracked on the threads... doesn't matter it's broken now Has anyone had luck repairing this type of stupidity! Bob's says they can. I'm just not sure.

PLease offer your advice as I will just stew over this till... forever besides I will have to get a carb on this one or a new one sometime soon and I would like to avoid my earlier issues

One more thing where is a good place to start with the set up on the load screw and mixture needles? I went with 1.5 turns off seat on the load screw and counted the turns on the others when I took it apart but I have no idea where they are now.

Thanks again for the help

dumby of the dumb-ist

~If you suspect a fuel flow problem [it sounds like you might have a problem] open the fuel drain on the bottom of the carb, then unscrew the knurled knob on top of the fuel strainer, then hold that knurled knob down & see if you get a pencil sized stream of fuel from the carb drain for AT LEAST 30 seconds. If you don't get fuel flow for a full 30 seconds you have probably found your problem.

~With the engine running better when the fuel bowl loose you might want to look at the carb bowl vent for being plugged.

~On that carb bowl stem being broken: That is a very hard repair to do yourself & you will need to machine a new lower stem furrel, then machine the carb stem to accept the new lower piece, then braze or silver solder that new piece in. [a difficult repair unless you have done it before]

~On your mixture screws...start with the idle screws about 1-1/2 turns out from seated & the metering screw 2-1/4 turns out from seated.

~I'm not totally convinced you have a fuel flow problem, you cold possibly have an ignition coil overheating due to too much running voltage. That 530 came with by-pass starting & a 6 volt coil with ballast resistor. If you have a volt meter, put it on the resistor [ign switch] side of the coil with the tractor running at idle & see what the coil's running voltage is, if over 7-1/2 volts suspect the ballast resistor is missing or shorted & the coil is overheating. You can probably do a quick test by placing your hand on the coil after it runs for a while [or when it's acting up] if the coil is HOT [a little warm is normal] you are probably running it at too much voltage & the coil is overheating & quitting...

on the repair..My machinest thinks he can take care of it he likes a challenge

on the repair..My machinest thinks he can take care of it he likes a challenge