Generator check out ( John T.)

I opened the regulator and cleaned up the points and very thing seems to be OK I see a good snap between the points when cycled. If I wish to adjust the regulator more spring tension increases my toggle point correct?thus a higher voltage cycle point right?

Which relay is which ? one is a voltage control and one is current control?

could someone please identify the terminals for me I cant read mine but I believe I remember what they should be.

Is there any testing I should go through to sniff out the deficiancy

My books are on back order I thought you folks could help me get started Thank you sooo much

To polarize: Momentarily connect a jumper wire from the BAT terminal on the regulator to the the A or armature terminal on the generator. You need to do it when the engine is Not running. Should get one quick spark from the momentary touch, then you're done. You don't mess with the terminal on the battery. From memory, as the multi terminal side faces you, the coil you want to play with is on the left side. If it's a 4 terminal Delco, from memory, the terminals are:
single term side = gen. Three terminal side from left to right = L or load or lights, Bat in center, F terminal to the right. If it's a 3 terminal Delco, ther is no L pick up -- and the link down below should get you going, N.B. though, it's not specifically for a 530.

If that doesn't make things happy --

Check the generator like this: Remove both A and F wires from the generator. Run a temporary jumper from the generator F terminal to a good ground. Connect one voltmeter lead to the generator A terminal, and the other lead to a good ground. Now run the motor at about 1/2 throttle. If the generator is working properly, the voltmeter will show somewhere over 12 or 18 volts. (The faster the motor is running the higher the voltage you will read). If the voltmeter reads 0 or close to it, the generator needs work.

If the generator is good, but still no charge, suspect the regulator or the ammeter. You can test the ammeter with a battery charger and some kind of load... like an old headlight or battery. It should deflect when you connect or disconnect the load. If it's the regulator, and as you say you've already cleaned the points, adusted the tension, etc... If that doesn't cut it, it might be best just to pony up for ~ 30 bucks for a new regulator.

If you end up taking off the gen or regulator for replacemnt or serivce, remember that even the smallish batts have a 80 to 100 minute reserve capacity -- that is they can supply 25 amps for 80 or 100 minutes. You coil probably draws around 4 amps, and with a fast starting engine you can play with your new 530 that just moved in for a long time before you'll have to recharge the battery from an external charger.

• Wiring diagram for 50, 520

1) To polarize the generator, momentarily jump/flash a wire from the Voltage Regulators BAT terminal over to its ARM (or GEN) terminal and it should spark. The ARM or GEN terminal on the VR should have a wire off it to the ARM post on the generator, which is the larger of the 2 posts, so the flash should work the same there as its the same electrical point if the wire is okay. Yes, you accomplish the same from a wire off the batterys non grounded post as you asked, but to the VR's ARM terminal or armature on the generator.

NOOOOO OOOOO OOOO DO NOT JUMP OR CONNECT IT TO THE FIELD.

The BAT terminal on the VR should always be hot as its supposed to be wired through the ammeter to the ungrounded (neg in your case) battery terminasl often via the starter post.

On the VR's internal wiring:

2&3) Yes, increasing the spring tension causes the realy not to pull in until more current is applied (which will change the pull in and drop out voltages and when the field control relay switches from ground to resistive ground) but which relay is for what is impossible for me to say without the VR in front of me, as I have seen several different types all of which were used on similar tractors. However, if the points are clean and not burned up or carboned and the relays are pulling in and dropping out, I wouldt advise making any adjustments until you try the other troubleshootung tips below. Still, to identify the internal relays, the one wired to the external FIELD terminal is the field control relay (adjusting it changes when the field is grounded or grounded in series with a resistor), the Voltage Control Relay (one that determines at what voltage the cut out relay pulls in to connect the external BAT and ARM terminals) is the one wired to the external BAT and ARM terminals.

4) Terminal identification:

If you have a 3 wire VR, the BAT terminal is the one thats always hot and is wired to the ammeters load (non battery) side. The ARM or GEN terminal is the one wired to the ARM post on the generator which is the larger of the 2. The FLD terminal is the one wired to the Field post on the Generator, the smaller of the 2.

If you have a 4 wire VR, The BAT is the hot terminal (wired to ammeters load side), the L or Load terminal is the one wired to the lights and ignition switch, the FLD terminal is wired to the generators Field post, and the one often out the opposite side or down below (sometimes hard wired no terminal) is wired to the generators Arm post.

Troubleshooting a system to see if the gen or the VR is the cause of non charging. First, the VR's BAT terminal has to be connected to the battery via any ammeter to charge it, and it should always show battery voltage with the tractor on or off. The generator has to have a good ground and the VR a good connection to the generator, and the belt tight. To save time although some of this may be redundant, I am attaching the general garden variety generator/regulator test I post here or e mail questioners. In the July or July/August issues of Green Magazine, Im planning 2 complete articles to cover this in depth, but below is a basic outline.

Assuming all other simple things like an open or shorted wire or open circuit or bad ground connection or loose belt or a plain old bad battery are NOT the problems of non charging, try the below: To troubleshoot whether the VR is bad, first be sure the belt is good and tight and the generator has a good ground to the tractors frame and that the VR has a good ground to the generator. With the tractor running, use a jumper wire and connect the F post out of the generator (smaller of the 2 gen posts) to the generators steel frame ground, and if the ammeter then shows charge, you either have a bad VR or a bad/broken wire connection between the generators F post and the F terminal on the VR. If she still doesnt show charge, leave the F grounded, and then momentarily connenct the BAT and ARM (or GEN) on the VR together to see if it shows charge. If she charges then, you have a bad cutout relay inside the VR. With the F still grounded and the GEN or ARM on the VR connected to the BAT terminal and if the Gen and VR have good grounds and assuming the BAT terminal is connected to the battery via any ammeter and she still dont charge, its probably a bad generator. You can also motor test the gen by removing its belt and all its wiring (protect all the wiring so it doesnt short out) and jump wiring the ungrounded bat terminal (i.e. - on a + ground system) to the generators ARM post (larger of 2) and the generator should turn like a motor. A source of such battery power could be the wire from the VR's BAT terminal, as it leads to the battery via the ammeter. If it runs when you do that, then ground out the generators F post and she should slow down slightly. If not, the gens field may be bad. If the gen turns when you apply battery voltage (from the BAT lead or elsewhere) and slows slightly if you ground out the F post, it should generate power fine.

For the generator to charge the battery, there has to be a connection between the BAT terminal on the VR to the battery (usually via the ammeter) and test that by using a test light or DC voltmeter and battery voltage should be present on that post ALL THE TIME. If the gens power doesnt reach the battery, it cant ever charge it, and the path is out the ARM post on the Gen, to the GEN or ARM terminal on the VR, through the VR's cut out relay, out to the BAT terminal on the VR, through the ammeter, then to the battery. If she dont charge despite all that and the tests show the gen is bad and NOT the VR because you by passed BOTH the Field and Cutout Relay per the tests above, and the rest of the wiring is good and the gen and VR are grounded properly, heres a few gen troubleshooting tips:

Many problems are the brush hold down spring assemblys are rusted and corroded so the brushes are not held down tight against the commutator. Use a wire brush and WD 40 and air etc to clean and free up the hold down spring assemblys so the brushes are held tightly down. If the brushes are not worn down too low and held down tight and she still wont charge, you may have an open field winding or a bad armature or a commutator problem.

That should be plenty to keep you busy. Sorry so long, but you raised a lot of issues.

Good Luck n God Bless

Ol John T Nordhoff in Indiana