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JD 70 D

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Dan

04-18-2003 17:22:34




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Having trouble getting the starting mechanism to engage the diesel engine. Pony runs fine and I have started the diesel since I bought it recently. When I bought it, the owner said it needed alittle adjustment(the starting mechanism). I have all the manuals for the tractor but I'm alittle scared to take it apart. My first diesel.




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Clooney

04-18-2003 17:51:38




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 Re: JD 70 D in reply to Dan, 04-18-2003 17:22:34  
Dan, you say "Having trouble getting the starting mechanism to engage the diesel engine",,, Is it grinding, slipping, or just won't travel far enough to engage the flywheel teeth? ~If it's grinding, one thing you might try is pulling the compression release [pony NOT running], then engaging the clutch, then trying to spin the crankshaft a little by hand with the pulley. Then try to start the diesel with the pony, if that helps you might have bad teeth at one place on the flywheel ring gear & will have to rotate the ring gear or flip it over. [those diesels engines seem to always stop in the same place]
~If it slips you might have a failing over-running clutch in the pony trans. Or the pony clutch is slipping or out of adjustment.
~If it just doesn't engage far enough you might need a linkage adjustment or the flywheel has moved out on the crankshaft.
~Give us all the details you can on the "Having trouble getting the starting mechanism to engage " problem & we will point you towards your problem....

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Dan

04-19-2003 18:33:54




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 Re: Re: JD 70 D in reply to Clooney , 04-18-2003 17:51:38  
I did what you said, and the starter ring gear on the flywheel has a spot, about 12-16 teeth that are obviously worn. I did not try to start the tractor because I am getting ready to put on a wide front end and have it sitting on blocks. What would be the best way to fix this problem? Thanks for your help.



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Clooney

04-19-2003 19:41:48




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 Re: Re: Re: JD 70 D in reply to Dan, 04-19-2003 18:33:54  
Dan, the best way I have found to get it back to normal is to replace the flywheel ring gear. That is expensive & usually not necessary. ~You can just pull the flywheel, then heat the ring gear with a torch, then drive the ring gear off with a brass drift or block of wood, then flip it over & re-heat the ring gear & drive it back on. You will have to use a die grinder or angle grinder & grind the flywheel teeth to match the lead that's on the original side.
~Now for the warning... before pulling that flywheel, mark the flywheel to crankshaft so it can be put back the same,,,then remove the clutch cover & drive a block of wood or use a small jack & MAKE SURE the crankshaft is pushed AND HELD to the flywheel side as far as possible or you risk the inner thrust washer falling out & getting broken. That is a big job to fix so heed the warning. On the 70D the flywheel goes on all the way & the end play is controlled by shims, UNLESS the later 720 flywheel & spacer has been added, in that case you will have to re-set the crankshaft end play to .005"-.010".
~A service manual would be a good idea but if you go slow & ask questions here it won't be too bad...
~In the past when I was in a hurry I have just heated the ring gear, driven it off & turned it about 90� then reheated the gear & driven it back on while the flywheel was on the engine [not an easy task]. That will usually get you by as the engine stops in a different place than the moved bad spot. Too bad it isn't a 720-730, you could just pull the compression release as the engine stops & the engine will stop in different places each time..

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Rich

04-21-2003 07:39:39




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 Re: Re: Re: Re: JD 70 D in reply to Clooney , 04-19-2003 19:41:48  
On my 70D, previously owned by a John Deere mechanic, there is a vertical rod welded onto the decompression bar on the right side next to the throttle. It is about 4 inches long and when pulled makes a perfect compression release to be used after shutting down the throttle. The engine rolls to a stop with no stress on the flywheel.



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