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Hi again Bob, from your added info, I now know it doesnt have a 2 wire cut out relay or a 3 wire Voltage Regulator, but (even better actually) a 4 wire Voltage Regulator. The VR's terminal wired to the light switch is the (L) or load terminal,,,,, ,, the terminal leading to the ammeter is the VR's BAT terminal,,,,, the one to the gens smaller post is the Field,,,,, and the one (often out the bottom or other side) to the gens larger post, is the Armature. If the VR's terminal are not labeled, I cant be sure which is FLD and which is ARM (or GEN), but on many of them, the ARM/GEN is off on one side or the bottom by itself, and some have a wire out only (often the bottom) and no terminal at all. Regardless to insure, the one to the larger post on the gen is the ARM and the one to the smaller post is the Field. NOW, if its charging okay and the ammeter is indicating in the right direction, I wouldnt worry about its polarity and leave well enough alone. If the ammeter reads backwards, just reverse its leads. NOTE some Voltage Regulators work on either pos or neg ground, others wont, which may be a possible reason to leave well enough alone if shes working. If you still just want to reverse it all for correct police or any other reasons and if your VR will work either way, you would have to: Reverse the battery, Re polarize the generator by momentarily jumping a wire from the VR's BAT (one you said went to ammeter) terminal down to the ARM (larger of the 2) post on the generator. CAUTION dont make any jump to the gens Field winding, either on the gen istelf or the F terminal on the VR. On those 4 wire VR's, usually the top terminals are BAT and L (load) and FLD (wired to gens Field, smaller of its 2 posts) while the wire out the bottom or other side is wired to the ARM (larger of 2) posts on the generator. Thats why I now say (knowing you have a 4 wire VR) to polarize it you momentarily jump the VR's BAT terminal direct down to the ARM post on the gen, cuz it may be hard or risky to get to the lower or opposite side of the VR and some of those only have a wire running out with no terminal at all. However, sounds like yours has a terminal you mentioned on the other side (not bottom I take it), which isnt so bad and you could polarize by jumping the BAT over to the ARM on the VR itself. After polarization, reverse the ammeter leads if she reads backwards. My best guess is (Sorry, I dont have any Echlin Coil number specs) since it has no external ballast resistor, you probalby have a 12 volt internally ballasted coil. If so, we (clooney and I discussed in e mails) do not recomemend you make any coil wire reversals as you might end up with the internal ballast and not the coils primary next to the condensor. If the coil is not running so hot you cant touch it and the points are not burnign out quickly, your coil situation is probably fine, as its designed for a full 12 volts and likely has around 3 ohms total internal resistance. If you just have a need to experiment, you might try reversign its leads and see if you notice any engine starting or runnign differences. Sorry, I dont have any G spec books or SN breakdowns, but thought only the latest models out the factory had water pumps. Thanks for the concern and support of the troops, especially my Marine son. Last word is he's fine although were not exactly sure where he is right now. God Bless, take care, post back any more questions or if your coil runs extremely hot (may be 6 volt or have no ballast). John T Nordhoff PS, if she dont get too hot based upon the use you put her too, I wouldnt worry about addign a water pump myself.
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