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Rich: I've been in and out of that same problem, and the adjustments can be tough to get just right. First off, there is a brake pad back in behind the pinion. If it's worn out or oil soaked, it will be a problem for you. To replace it means pulling the pony off the tractor. Is your pinion gear at rest when the engagement lever is all the way forward ? If so, the brake is probably servicible. Does your pony clutch work all right ? If you can warm up the pony, then shut it off, then engage it and start it up already engaged, does the pony crank the diesel, or does it slip at all ? If it slips, you might have to adjust the clutch first. Next, when you pull back on the engagement lever fully, the linkage is pulled back in the center. As this inverted "Y" is pulled back, the linkage should form a straight line, going from the clutch yoke on the tractor right, to the pinion yoke on the tractor left. There is a little plate on the outside of the housing that holds a spring and pin. It has a cotter key on the outside to retain it. That spring pushes the linkage to the right, as the clutch resists it. So, all the force to hold the pressure plate to the flywheel is caused by the spring. This pin should stick out about 1/16" when engaged. So, if the clutch is all right, and the pinion is turning before it has moved outward, you can try shortening the link that connects to the pinion yoke. That way, as you pull the lever back, the pinion yoke will begin to pivot before the linkage can become straight, forcing the clutch yoke to push on the pressure plate. If you shorten it too far, the pinion will engage, but the pressure plate will not have enough pressure against it, and it will slip (as indicated by the pin on the end not protruding 1/16") . Then you will have to begin lengthening it maybe a 1/2 turn at a time until you get it to engage then turn. It's really important that the brake be servicable and that the clutch is adjusted properly. Post back with your findings. Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855
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