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620 fuel guage sender

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Mike F

04-07-2003 17:50:56




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I tested mine with an ohm meter and got about 3.0 when empty and about 34 when in the full position, is this right, we got the tractor in parts and I want to know if this is good and how is it wired to the guage and the power source, also what one would cost if I have to replace, thanks. Also the float has some fluid in it, but it does float well, is it suppose to be this way? and are these parts still available.

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John T

04-08-2003 08:24:01




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 Re: 620 fuel guage sender in reply to Mike F, 04-07-2003 17:50:56  
Mike, when I replaced my sending unit on my 620, I tested it outside the tank and observed the fuel gauges needle deflection at top and near tank bottom, and had to add an external resistor of around 5 ohms to get it accurate. However, if yours indicates accurately as is, theres no need for that. The float can not stand any leaks whatsoever, (will obviously sink to bottom) and if you shake yours and hear any liquid sloshing, it needs to be repaired or replaced. Its been a while, but I think I was able to get one from Deere???

Good Luck, God Bless the USA and please pray for and support the troops.

John T Nordhoff in Indiana

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Clooney

04-08-2003 03:58:03




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 Re: 620 fuel guage sender in reply to Mike F, 04-07-2003 17:50:56  
Mike, that resistance sounds about right for the original sender & gage, I think the factory unit was 0-30+ ohms. [the replacements are a little different though].
~The float shouldn't have any fluid in it. [push it down in a pot of boiling water & look for air bubbles as the air inside expands] once the leak is found, drill a small hole & let the fluid out, then re-solder both the original leak & the drain hole, don�t use a flame to solder or you risk blowing the float up.
~I can't help you on the cost to replace your gage & sender but the replacement won't look the same as your original & it needs both pieces replaced together to operate correctly as the resistance values are different in the replacement gage/sender.
~You should be able to test yours by hooking a 12 volt source to the dash gage [battery negative to gage], then run a wire from the other gage post to the tank sender post, then run a jumper wire from the tank sender housing to the battery positive post to complete the circuit. The gage should operate & read correctly when the float is cycled through the empty to full range..

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