520 LP....HOW TO GET OFF CLUTCH DRIVE DISC?????

I just bought a 520 LP. The motor caused bad vibrations....so I thought OK, the clutch drive disc is probably out of time. It was assembled wrong....Well came to find out....it was off. The "V" marks were not matched up. But the real problem was the 3"x4" chunk missing on the outside corner.....Well I had found the culprit! Now to get the clutch drive disc off of the crankshaft! I have used a piece of flat steel with a hole to accomodate the bolt in the end of the crank. Then the 2 bolts that go into the disc. Got it tight, PB Blaster, (fire wrench), hammer, chisel, sweat, bloody knuckles.....now what?? I have managed to cut/chip off part of the gear on the end without damaging the crank shaft. I figured what the heck, I'm not going to be using it again anyway. But it still won't pop loose. Am I forgeting anything?? Any better methods. I would like to be able to heat then quickly cool the disc and crack it then it will come lose...right??

Then comes the dilema as to when I actually get the thing off. I need to procure a new one. I think it is part# B3731R but I could be wrong. It's too late to call my local deere dealer and find out if it's avail. It isn't avail from this web site sales thingamagig!! I need the other clutch discs/drive plate/ect but I am pretty sure it's available from JD.

Any ideas, advice, or preaching would be great!
Thanks

Dengler Vintage tractor parts have clutch drive disc. Phone 513-423-4000 or 513-423-0706

Are you sure you have to use a puller ? I have service manual pictures that show those two 1/2" holes are "pusher" holes, not puller holes. Now I've never done a '520', but all I have seen either use a pair of bolts with square nuts to acts as pushers (where the driver is slotted), or just 1/2" bolts if the driver is through threaded.

You can use a puller if you want, but those driving disks that are designed to accept those bolts have them screw all the way in and bottom out against the outward facing back of the pulley cavity. Tightening these bolts evenly pushes the driver off of the tapered splines.

As I recall, A/B/G/50/60/620 used the slotted driver that used the square nut and bolt to push off, and the 70/720/730 (gas or diesel) used the through threaded holes to use two 1/2" bolts only. From the parts book, it looks like the 520 driver is through threaded for bolts only.

When the through threaded holes came out it was a major improvement, and many of the tractors I worked around had a pair of bolts kept in the tool box just for that purpose.

I've removed quite a few drivers, and never used a puller. But, please, if I'm wrong let me know. I just don't want the fella looking for a puller if he doesn't need one.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

But he said he has the two bolts in the driver now. This illustration seems to denote two holes, and I thought those would be through-threaded holes like on other drivers. Are you saying that those holes do not go through ?

What am I missing ?

Can you describe how that I&T book shows it ? I really would like to understand this.

Frank

Are you sure you have to use a puller ? I have service manual pictures that show those two 1/2" holes are "pusher" holes, not puller holes. Now I've never done a '520', but all I have seen either use a pair of bolts with square nuts to acts as pushers (where the driver is slotted), or just 1/2" bolts if the driver is through threaded.

You can use a puller if you want, but those driving disks that are designed to accept those bolts have them screw all the way in and bottom out against the outward facing back of the pulley cavity. Tightening these bolts evenly pushes the driver off of the tapered splines.

As I recall, A/B/G/50/60/620 used the slotted driver that used the square nut and bolt to push off, and the 70/720/730 (gas or diesel) used the through threaded holes to use two 1/2" bolts only. From the parts book, it looks like the 520 driver is through threaded for bolts only.

When the through threaded holes came out it was a major improvement, and many of the tractors I worked around had a pair of bolts kept in the tool box just for that purpose.

I've removed quite a few drivers, and never used a puller.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

The goods news is, Deere still lists the B3731R as available. The bad news is it lists for $567.10.

I looked around, but could not find any ads for aftermarket sourcs, so maybe someone can jump in here and give you a lead. I think Dengler and or Polk has them. Not sure though.

You lost me there when you said you used a piece of steel with a hole in it to accomodate the crankshaft bolt. That end has to be clear to let the driver slide off, right ? All you should have to do is to turn those two "jack" bolts in until they are tight. Sometimes I have had to turn the center bolt in a few turns (to protect the threads of the crank), and give it a rap with a lead hammer. It should "pop" and jump off the tapers.

Since you can heat it, you should be able to warm the gear area pretty hot, and alternatively tighten each jack bolt. A few heat and cool cycles, and it might pop off while it cools down.

Hope this helps.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855