Bill, there could be any number of reasons the L/H cylinder is dry & the R/H is wet. From a carb problem, to a weak ignition system, to a compression problem, to a valve problem, to no problem at all.~If it runs good once started that usually means the problem isn�t serious & could be as easy as a choke or carb adjustment problem. A leaky manifold could be the problem but that usually causes a runability problem also. ~You are correct in thinking that the 530 has by-pass starting, & while that could be the problem in most cases it isn�t. Usually when the by-pass system fails it will start but won�t run. In rare cases the by-pass wire from the starting circuit will fail & can cause low coil voltage during cranking. If you have a volt meter you can measure the coil�s supply power side & it should be around 6-7.5 volts while running & be above 10 volts while cranking. ~On the timing�the RUNNING timing is 20� at fast idle. You can check that by using a timing light. Just remove the timing hole cover [the little cover on the top rear of the flywheel cover], then hook up your timing light to the L/H plug wire & run the engine at fast idle [wide open throttle] , then point the timing light into the little hole & you should see 20� btdc. If it isn�t correct, just loosen the distributor & turn it until you see 20� btdc centered in the timing hole. If you don�t have a timing light you can set it statically by removing the L/H spark plug, then turning the flywheel until the L/H cylinder comes up on compression & the TDC mark on the flywheel lines up in the center of the timing hole, then loosen the distributor & turn it a little clock wise, then install the removed spark plug in the L/H plug wire & lay it on the block, then turn the ignition switch on, then slowly turn the distributor in the counter clock wise direction until you see a spark on that L/H spark plug, then tighten the distributor down. ~That by-pass ignition system on the 520-530 is an excellent system & I doubt you will see any gain by spending the money on an electronic ignition system. I have more than a few old Deere tractors with that by-pass ignition system & as long as the points are in good shape & not oxidized they will all start within a couple of revolutions even after being stored all winter. ~As long as you are going to be allowed to work on that tractor before buying it you should probably run a compression test on it as that will tell you more than doing any ignition work. You didn�t tell us if the tractor is an all-fuel or gas tractor but if a gasoline burner the hot compression should be 140+ on each side. If it�s low, or more than 10 psi different from side to side you might want to make a slightly lower offer as it is probably in need of engine work.
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