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Getting Into Hot Water on Model 60

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AlbertoV05

03-10-2003 18:22:07




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I'm changing out a leaking head gasket on my 60 (gas model without the coolant bypass - thermostat is on top of block) and am going to switch out the 160 degree thermostat for the 180 degree one. I've read several posts over the past few months about some people driling a 1/8" hole in the thermostat flange so you always have a little of the warm water circulating and avoid the "shock" of letting a blast of cold coolant in the block once the thermostat opens up. Is drilling this hole in the thermostat flange a good idea or not?
Thanks in advance

Al in Iowa

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Mike Aylward

03-11-2003 05:52:46




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 Re: Getting Into Hot Water on Model 60 in reply to AlbertoV05, 03-10-2003 18:22:07  
Al, I will add my two cents to the mix. A 1/8" hole would be an extremely large hole and would almost eliminate the thermostats ability to help your tractor warm up with any speed. I fully agree with Clooney's statement that the hole will eliminate air lock. All you need is a place for the air bubbles to keep going through. I would recommend something in the neighborhood of about 1/16". I did this to a 4400 combine engine I used to own (329 diesel). They were notorious for getting an airlock behind their thermostats in the water manifold and you could bake an engine but the temperature gauge wouldn't show the engine was getting hot due to there being no water around the bulb to activate the gauge. And as far as the head gasket goes on your 60, I have had excellent results over the years with applying #3 Permatex on the outside vertical rails of the gasket (keep it off the inside rails and fire rings), then torquing the head in 10 lb. increments starting at about 40-50 lbs. and going to the recommended 150 lbs. Recheck when the engine is warm. Quite often you will get a little more movement, sometimes not. I have done this on my 60 pulling tractor that has nearly 200 lbs. of compression and it has never failed to work. Mike

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AlbertoV05

03-11-2003 14:29:10




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 Re: Re: Getting Into Hot Water on Model 60 in reply to Mike Aylward, 03-11-2003 05:52:46  
Mike,
Please apologize the possibly ignorant question but can you define what you mean by "vertical rails" of the head gasket? I had planned on putting a THIN coating of #3D Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket sealer across both sides of the gasket EXCEPT around the fire rings.
Thanks

Al in Iowa



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Mike Aylward

03-11-2003 16:35:56




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 Re: Re: Re: Getting Into Hot Water on Model 60 in reply to AlbertoV05, 03-11-2003 14:29:10  
Al, the water passages of the gasket are surrounded by what I call "rails". The inside rail includes the fire ring and the outside rail is to the extreme outside of the water passages of the gasket. The "vertical rails" are vertical when the gasket is installed. Put the Permatex on both sides of the vertical part outside the water passages, not on the inside next to the fire rings. Clear as mud...:-) Mike

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John T

03-10-2003 20:05:20




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 Re: Getting Into Hot Water on Model 60 in reply to AlbertoV05, 03-10-2003 18:22:07  
Hey Al, thanks for the nice e mail. Anyway as I said, Ive heard of that drill trick but never done it to any myself, but dont see how it could hurt anything and agree theres not any huge thermal shock to worry about with all that mass of iron youre dealign with. Its my opinion when you retorque that new head gasket to go real slooooo ooooo ooowwwww www with like no more than 10 lb tightening increments at a time each round, of course, in the proper sequence. God Bless the USA, take care, Ol John T

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Clooney

03-10-2003 18:41:03




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 Re: Getting Into Hot Water on Model 60 in reply to AlbertoV05, 03-10-2003 18:22:07  
Al, it's not a bad idea to drill a small hole on the non by-pass system T-Stats. It doesn't have to do with thermo shock [that small hole won't effect the temp above the T-stat & even if it did there isn't anything above the T-stat that will be shocked], it has to do with air lock below the T-stat. If air gets trapped below the T-stat the T-stat won't get any hot water against it to act on the opening assembly & it won't open when it's supposed to....That small hole allows the air to pass through & keeps a good supply of hot water against the T-stat...

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G Taylor

03-10-2003 20:52:22




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 Re: Re: Getting Into Hot Water on Model 60 in reply to Clooney, 03-10-2003 18:41:03  
The 1/8" hole is lots big to vent air, a 3/32 is plenty. The idea of limiting thermal shock is when shortly after start-up if the engine is heavily loaded. The rad is at ambient temp ( can be below freezing) and the coolant in the head and the block to some degree is getting pretty warm. The thermostat is being somewhat thermally isolated by bubbles of air given off by the heating coolant. or it can be isolated by just a "dead leg" of cold coolant water. When the unvented thermostat finally opens there can be a large slug of cold water hitting the engine. I may well be wrong but it seems to follow how some people cold seize snowmobile engines, blow head gaskets on 60's or 70/720/730 diesels. When sudden heavy loads are applied while the engine is too cold.

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