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INTERMITTENT FIRING

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HANK

03-03-2003 05:40:09




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I'M STRUGGLING WITH A 60 THAT SOMETIMES STARTS
ON TWO AND THEN DECIDES TO FIRE ON ONLY ONE.
A DAY LATER SHE MAY DECIDE TO START ON ONE AND
THEN WAKE-UP AND FIRE ON TWO FOR A WHILE. NEW PLUGS, NEW PLUG WIRES AND NEW DIST. CAP
LAST WEEK. PLEASE POINT ME IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION.
THE GUILTY CYLINDER IS THE DRIVERS LEFT.




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WTW

03-04-2003 11:21:26




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 Re: INTERMITTENT FIRING in reply to HANK, 03-03-2003 05:40:09  
Hank, If you find that the igniton is not your problem I would check your left cam bearing. Your symptoms are a classic sign of a failed left hand cam bearing. To check for this remove the cam bearing cover / cap located on the left side of crankcase at about 11 O-clock outside flywheel diameter. You will have to remove the flywheel cover to do this. Good chance that the rollers in the tapered roller bearing will fall out when you remove it or they may not even be there. If you can hear allot of gear noise when the engine is running that too a sign the cam bearing has failed. What happens is when the cam bearing fails the valves on number one cylinder do not open far enough and sometimes when valve lash is adjusted with a bad bearing the failed bearing will allow the bearing rollers to chase from side to side of race as the cam lobe works the lifter. That is why it will run different from one moment to another. Not hard to check, let us know what you learn. Good Luck Dave W.

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John T

03-04-2003 11:37:01




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 Re: Re: INTERMITTENT FIRING in reply to WTW, 03-04-2003 11:21:26  
Hey Dave, where ya been keepin yourself??? When I see questions about 24 volt systems, I refer folks your way. John T



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WTW

03-04-2003 16:17:21




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 Re: Re: Re: INTERMITTENT FIRING in reply to John T, 03-04-2003 11:37:01  
John, As always and more so lately I have been keeping myself pretty busy. Since Christmas I have had 5 major engine jobs. Of course all JD. Been busy at work also, got a big tech manual to be out in April. Between the norm I have also been hauling my son to Princeton Indiana to the USAP pulls this winter, another one of them coming up in two weeks. Did fair in January and not so good in February. Maybe the ground won't be froze as it was at the last pull and we can get back in the winners circle. Still enjoy reading and posting on this site as much as ever, just don't get the time to do it as much. You and Clooney do a good job so I don't need to do much. Keep up the good work as I know allot of people do appreciate it. If it wasn't for the "feel good" of helping someone out with the same interest I guess none of us would do it would we. We sure don't do it for the money do we! Ha Ha. Though I do enjoy helping like you guys too. Take care, Dave Wickman (WTW)

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Easydoesit

03-03-2003 13:43:19




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 Re: INTERMITTENT FIRING in reply to HANK, 03-03-2003 05:40:09  
Hank, I had a G that drove me crazy like that once...I eventually found that the oil tube from the governor box up to the valves cover was plugged and the valve would start sticking when warmed up.....anyway I hooked up a timing gun to both sides and watched it fire to verified that it was not the spark...real pretty to watch both guns in the dark!



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GaryW

03-03-2003 09:47:17




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 Re: INTERMITTENT FIRING in reply to HANK, 03-03-2003 05:40:09  
Had the same problem with an A once. Had new plugs, wires and cap. I thought I had a stuck valve. Before I pulled the valve cover, just for the heck of it I thought I would try another set of plugs. I pulled the new set out and put in another set. It ran great and I've never had another problem. New plugs can sometimes be bad. It may be worth a try. I pulled out the old autolites and replaced them with Champion and it started right up and ran smooth.

Gary

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Clooney

03-03-2003 08:01:31




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 Re: INTERMITTENT FIRING in reply to HANK, 03-03-2003 05:40:09  
Hank, John pretty well covered the stuck valve thing. As soon after you start it as is possible [when the problem occurs] run a compression test to see if you have a compression loss due to a stuck valve.

~You might want to make sure the choke is opening completely [if the pins under the cover on the side of the choke are jumping over, the choke could be partially closed with the choke knob all the way in]�. [common problem]

~Make sure there is no water or ice in the air cleaner cup. If there is you might be wetting a plug out right after starting.

~Run the tractor until it�s hot then park it & pull both spark plugs, then let it sit a couple of days, then have someone crank it & watch for liquid to be spit out the L/H cylinder. [maybe it�s taking coolant into the L/H cylinder]

~Can you control the engine idle with both idle needles? If so are they at about the same amount of turns out? If you have problems getting the L/H idle needle to change the idle quality suspect a problem in the carb idle circuit.

~If all the above checks out OK you could still have a spark problem. While the problem is occurring you might want to put a voltmeter on the ign coil�s ignition switch side & verify you have 6+ volts while running [ballast resistor by-pass starting system], or have 12+ volts on the early non resistor non by-pass starting system. You might have a failing ignition switch or ballast resistor connections causing low coil voltage. [somewhat common problem]

~If you still haven�t found anything, take an old spark plug wire & cut it about 4� from the plug end, then strip the outer insulation back about �� on both ends of the cut ends, then slide the cut ends into a piece of tight fitting clear plastic tubing with the wire ends about 1/8� to 3/16� apart. Then install on the L/H side & start the tractor in the dark [or dark area]. If you have a good bluish spark with it misfiring your problem is either farther into the engine or you have a bad spark plug. If you see a poor spark while the problem exists you have something wrong with your distributor/coil/cap�.

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John T

03-03-2003 05:56:49




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 Re: INTERMITTENT FIRING in reply to HANK, 03-03-2003 05:40:09  
Mornin Hank, Well, new plugs and new wires and cap (assuming they are all okay) rules out one possible cause of intermittent firing, so were left with maybe a sticking valve problem or carb or one weak cylinder. Things to consider are what are the compression on each side, especially if the misfiring side is way lower than the other. Another thing which would help to know is when you remove the plugs, are they similar in appearance, or is one oily or fouled looking more then the other????? ?? Have you ran a valve lash adjustment check on the tractor lately??? Have you adjusted the carbs idle adjusters for BOTH sides independantly lately??? I remove the opposite sides spark plug when I adjust them and set them one cylinder at a time. Even though you replaced most of the ignition components, there could still be a distributor cam problem or a loose shaft. What is the gap set at now, and try opening it to around 0.023 or so. If the points are pitted or burned or carboned or oxide coated, clean or replace them. When was the last time the carb was serviced or rebuilt or cleaned???

Sorry so many questions instead of the answer youre seeking, but Im just fishing for possible suspects now. Good Luck n God Bless Ol John T Nordhoff

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