Deere 70 Diesel Starting

• Levers

1. Thats for sure the combination compression release and old pony motor engage clutch lever.

2. Im not sure what that is, it would resemble the clutch lever if not so far forward and so skinny?????

3. Thats the transmission main gear shift lever.

4. Thats the transmissions HIGH/LOW shift lever. If in high, youre in the higher numbered gear as indicated on the main lever above, and in lower on LOW range. There may be another smaller but similar lookign lever in that area which engages the PTO.

5. Hand Clutch lever. Snaps in forward to engage, back to disengage.

Good Luck John T

2:Main Engine Throttle

3:Gear Selector

4:High/Low2 Range selector

5: Main engine clutch Lever

Not Labeled: # 4.5 = PTO IN/OUT lever (the small one between the Hi/Lo range and Main CLutch lever. This engages the gear train that drives the shafts to the PTO Clutch in the rear Or the PTO shaft alone if PTO is transmission driven and not live).

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

NOTE: do not advance speed control lever until diesel engine oil gauge shows pressure and engine is turning freely on full compression.

11.As soon as the diesel engine starts and runs, push starting control lever forward enough to trip transmission contol rod.
CAUTION: Do NOT push lever beyond point of tripping control rod.
In cold weather if the diesl fails to start within 15 seconds, return diesel speed control lever to stop position.

Note: To stop the cranking engine, shut off the fuel and allow the motor to burn out all the fuel in the carb and line. This will help promote cranking engine life. Also, after the pony has died, return the ignition-light combo switch to the off postion so you dont burn up the points on the pony motor ignition distributor.

STOPPING THE DIESEL:
1.Idle the diesel a few minutes to cool it off gradually. 2.To stop the engine, pull out speed control lever stop button and pull speed control all the way back. The purpose of the stop button is to permit moving the speed control lever to idling position without stopping the engine. When speed control button is pulled all the way back, the fuel supply to the engine is cut off and after a few revolutions, the engine will stop.

Thats all it says to do in the manual. Hope this clears some stuff up. Let me know if you need anything else from the manual or i also have the shop manual as well (I&T). Have a good 'en
Chuck
"Tractor Boy"
"Chuck Diesel"

If so, the small side door pony motor gas tank has to have gas in it, of course.

1. Turn the pony motors rotary gas turn on valve on the dash to open/on (assuming it has one).

2. Switch the dash pony ignition swith to ON.

3. Set the flat lil pony flip START/RUN dash switch to Start.

4. Step on the pony motor electric start switch pedal (down there by left floor plan, looks like a lil pedal) I think the 70 has that versus the 730 push solenoid switch????? ??

5. Push the lil flat dash CHOKE lever to choke if needed (its by the START/RUN pony throttle)

6. Start the pony and let her run at the start throttle speed a good lil while to warm up and let the ponys exhaust and coolant warm up the big diesel.

7. Now, one of those left side hand pull levers engages the pony to turn the diesel, and the other is a diesle compression release.

8. Set the pony throttle up to the RUN position.

9. FIRST pull back the Compression Release Lever.

10. THEN , pull and hold back the pony engage clutch lever and the big diesel should start to turn, let it turn her a lil bit.

11. THEN, with the clutch lever still back and the diesel turning (have its big right side vertical throttle lever off idle and up/on a bit) RELEASE the Compression Release Lever, and the diesel should crank over a few turns and start. After she starts, release the pony clutch engage lever, set pony throttle back over to START and let her idle to cool a bit, turn off the pony motor gas valve, and finally, turn the pony ignition switch to OFF.

12. When you kill the big diesel, its best to also pull back the compression release lever to reduce strain on the flywheel to crank set.

Sorry if I missed something, its been a long time lol and Im not exactly sure you have the dual levers and push pedal switch versus the solenoid and single lever like I think maybe 730 etc or later than 70 had????? ??

Best wishes n God Bless Ya

Ol John T Nordhoff in Indiana

• electric start

Saw this on e-Bay a few minutes ago. It's at $40 now.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

• Pony motor rod/piston assy

OTHER CONCERNS: I havent crunched any numbers or anything or done any horsepower calculations, but just by lookign at your DC Motor and you say its 5 HP, I wonder if its gonna be strong enough to crank the diesel in cold temperarures????? ???? As you know, the electric start models were 24 volt and had HUGE (sorry, dont know their horsepower though) Starting Motors supplied by large battery cables rated to handle several hundred amps. (24 volts at 200 amps = 4800 watts in an electric start) I dont have the pony motor horsepower figures in front of me either, but they were V4 and ran at high RPM and were surely rated at more than 5 HP ????? ??

So, I hope she works and you now have the start n stop info, so let us all know if that 5 HP start motor you have is big enough to do the job. Im worried its not, but since I dont have the pony or stock electric start HP requirements, can only guess and hope for the best??? What voltage and battery set up are you running, 12 or 24?? What size batt cables you plan to use, at least 00??? Yes, CCW. Yes, lever is on left side. Shut down like Brandon n Chuck told ya.

Best Wishes Ol John T Nordhoff

I've only ever had the single lever system, and anytime I've had trouble adjusting it, it turned out that I had a mechanical problem that I would have had to correct even if I had two levers.

I think the adjustability problem was severe on the early '70D's', prior to 7026870, which involved the "move the lever forward to engage the starter switch mechanism".

The only thing that you can't really do with a single lever system without making the pinion clash that you can do with a two-lever system is pull the lever back to let the main engine coast to a stop. I know a lot of two-lever folks that say it really avoids stresses on the flywheel to crank spline junction, but I really think that that is over blown. That flywheel/crankshaft spline joint gets a whole lot more stress on it during start up and pick up right after you lug it down and pull the clutch to let it recover than it will ever get by coasting to a stop against compression. About the only benefit I can see is that by letting it coast to a stop without compresion is that you might not be as apt to let the starter ring gear stop at nearly the same position each time.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

The 70 only has a single lever to control cranking and decompression. I just asked how it worked recently, and here goes (from my poor memory)

Pull lever ALL the way back, engine is engaged, and decompressed. Push forward to halfway detent, and still engaged, but recompressed, and engine should start if you have the diesel throttle part way open. When diesel starts, push lever all the way forward to disengage. I'm not an expert on the 70, so hopefully someone will help better than I can!

Also, to kill the diesel engine, all you have to do is pull the throttle back. There is a stop button that you will have to pull out to pull the throttle all the way back.

Brandon

My Industrial John Deere website
My John Deere model 80 website