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Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing

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AlbertoV05

02-24-2003 20:08:35

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Any "secrets" to removing a clutch handle bolt and bushing on a 1955 Model 60? She's stuck in there REALLY tight.
Tried loosening the nut and placing a 2" X 4" and going at her with a engineers hammer. I hammerd on her as hard as I was comfortable with; didn't want to break the casting it mounts through!
Kind of wary of applying heat to the casting in this cold weather; don't want to crack that cast first reduction gear cover!
Once I do get it out what diameter should the hole be in the clutch handle? Better to weld up and drill out or sleeve it?
Thanks!

Al in Iowa

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Village Blacksmith

02-25-2003 19:48:51

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

My son was removing one from his "G" a few weeks ago. All he had was a piece of metal about three inches square and 3/8" thick with a hole in the center that fits over the pin. Using a two jaw puller pushing on the end of the bolt, it pushed the pivot pin right out with no trouble.

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ron in MN

02-25-2003 18:26:51

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

I'm another who made my own "press" similar to what others have said. That is on my 50. The bolt is actually slightly tapered and has very fine splines on it so that it grips very tightly (on purpose I suppose) and needs the press to get the old out and the new in. Don't recall if anyone mentioned this, but the new bolt is also available from Deere. Turning the old with a pipe wrench will definitely remove some metal from the casting and is not recommended.

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Chuck W

02-25-2003 09:53:55

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

Have found that a ball joint fork works the best. It wedges between the pivot and the pin. I always apply some heat to the top of the casting. Then I can use a fairly large size hammer. As you are driving the wedge between the two there is no side pressure and the impact is in the direction with wide support. This always works like a charm. I do think there is a special tool on the market. Sometime I have to tap my fork together as it tends to spread.

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pat

02-25-2003 09:29:30

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

Hello!
As others have mentioned, DO NOT HAMMER IT!

I have a '53 60, and made a puller (press) for it. I took two pieces of 3"x5"x1/2" metal plate, drilled a hole in the center of one plate to allow thw shoulder to pass through, and one on the ends of each plate for 1/2" all-thread. Then inserted the 2 pieces of all-thread (long enough to allow nuts on each side). Applied a little heat to the "ear" and pressed the bolt right out!

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David B

02-25-2003 05:55:58

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

I replaced my bolt and bushing with new J D parts a few years ago. I don't remember having any trouble, could that bolt be threaded into that ear on the reduction gear housing? Mine was on a 730.

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F-I-T

02-25-2003 07:51:35

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Re: Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to David B, 02-25-2003 05:55:58

David:

Are you sure yours was threaded ? I replaced the bolt on my '70D' last summer, and it not threaded in the first reduction gear housing....just pressed in. The shoulder of the bolt has lengthwise ridges, or striations, so that it presses straight in and stays tight. If someone were to turn the bolt, those striations would likely wear some of the casting bore out, too, and the new bolt could be a little sloppy because of it.

Frank-in-Tallahassee
70D // 855

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02-25-2003 05:41:30

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

I soak it with liquid wrench for a while and then put a big ole pipe wrench on the head and turned till free and then love tap with a hammer.

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Woody (NE)

02-25-2003 04:45:42

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

Al, I was able to remove the bolt from my 620 by using an 8" 'C' clamp. I backed the nut off a little and placed a socket over the other end. I tightened the clamp on the nut and socket as much as I though it would stand. Between a little tapping on the nut end of the clamp and some 'PB Blaster' it finally let go. A new bushing from JD and a washer on the outside of the old bolt really tightned it up.
Good-luck.

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Clooney

02-25-2003 02:43:25

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

Al, by far the best & safest way is to buy or make a puller to remove that pesky bolt. I believe Mike Alward sells [or at least did sell] a puller for that bolt.
~I strongly advise that you don't beat on that bolt with a hammer as those 1st reduction cover ears do break off fairly easily if the that area is beat on.
Ralph gave you the basic details on how to make a puller.

~Once the bolt is out you will probably find the bushing worn out [Deere still has them cheap] but will probably also find the pivot bolt worn as well as the sides of the clutch lever area where the bolt head rides against it.

~While a new bushing will go a long ways towards tightening that lever up if you want it as tight as new you might need a new pivot bolt & a little bolt machining.

~I usually just make a new bushing on my lathe that has a little smaller ID to allow for the wear on the pivot bolt & then machine the pivot bolt stop neck [the place where the bolt threads meet the larger diameter pivot part] back about .015" to .020" to allow the bolt head to pull into the clutch lever farther as that removes the side play in the lever.

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AlbertoV05

02-25-2003 04:14:25

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Re: Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to Clooney, 02-25-2003 02:43:25

Thanks, Clooney!
I e-mailed Mike about this tool and will take your advice and shave a bit off that shoulder on the pivot pin so she draws a bit deeper.
Thanks!

Al in Iowa

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Dave K

02-26-2003 18:24:56

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Re: Re: Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-25-2003 04:14:25

Is Mike still selling this tool? If so does anyone have his e-mail or other way to contact him?

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AlbertoV05

02-27-2003 10:06:36

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Re: Re: Re: Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to Dave K, 02-26-2003 18:24:56

Dave K,
Yes, Mike is still selling them. I just ordered one today (obviously haven't received it yet).
His e-mail is: [email protected]

Al in Iowa

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Bob Weber

02-25-2003 06:50:47

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Re: Re: Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-25-2003 04:14:25

I also open up the hole in the first reduction cover just a bit so when my son has to replace the bushing again in 50 years it won't come out so hard.

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Ralph

02-24-2003 21:15:10

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

I am sure that hammers have broken off more of those clutch mountings than heat has. The 2-Cyl mechanic in town has a shop made tool for their removal. He took a couple of 1/2" x 1+" strips of hard steel, drilled a hole big enough to clear the head of the bolt on the clutch pivot in the center of one of them. With two 9/16" bolts for motive force he uses the other strap to push the bolt out. Even with this and the propane torch it was grunt all the way out. It would have styed in for the last 50 years without a nut. I have seen tools designed for the job advertised in GM or 2cyl.

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John T

02-24-2003 20:22:26

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Re: Removing Clutch Handle Bolt Bushing in reply to AlbertoV05, 02-24-2003 20:08:35

Dear VO, The ABSOLUTE best way Ive found to get them out is a vibratign air hammer with a flat blunt end. I used to use heat etc., but if you can get a vibratign air hammer on it, she like slides right out. On the clutch handles, I install a new bushing inside them (available from Deere) and theres seldom much if any old bushing material left. Good Luck, God Bless Ol John T Nordhoff

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