Spark Plug Recommendations?

Al in Iowa

As a side note:
I looked into changing the thermostat out to a Deere 180 degree model, but the $105 price tag was a bit steep for me! Aftermarket 180 degree thermostats DO NOT EXIST for my tractor (mine has the thermostat on top of the block). The Stant model that ALL the parts stores say will work is too small in diameter. I bought one and nearly dropped it into the block! There is also another Stant model available that looks closer to the Deere OEM 180 degree, but the mounting flange on it is to tall/thick. If I were to install it I would never be able to get the thermostat housing to draw up tight against the block.
Thanks again!

Al in Iowa

However, regardless of the plug brand, it could also be a general igntion problem, not so much plug brand related.

1. When you check the plugs, are they a nice dry gray color, or a flat sooty black color, or a wet uneven shiny black color etc.????? ? Regardless of brand, they can serve as the messenger of problems that contribute to premature plug failure or ignition problems.

2. Often a type of knocking may be pre igntion spark knocking, but usually you dotn have sufficient excess compression or are timed way too fast which can contribute to such problems. Have you retarded the timing or know where it is now????? ?????

3. Just to be safe, I would remove the cap and inspect the points and if they are excess gray coated clean them and if they are burned or pitted or corroded or carboned up, replace them and check your gap. Inspect the cap for cracks or carbon paths and clean the rotor tips. I assume you have good wire core wires????? ? Faulty condensors or coils can cause problenms as you desrcibed, but start with good plugs and good clean proper gapped plugs first and paly wiht your timuing and see what happens. Is this an external ballasted coil system or an internal ballast 12 volt coil??? Has the tractors polarity ever been reversed??? it came out as positive ground.

4. If the plugs are coming out flat black sooty covered, I suspect a weak spark to them or youre running too rich a fuel mixture and/or too low heat range plugs. Have you tried leaning out the fuel mixture????? ?

A report on what the plugs look like is a good place to start, so try all this and what the others suggest and let us all know.

Good Luck N God Bless Ol John T Nordhoff

~Even if they were causing preignition due to a glowing electrode you would hear it in the cylinders & not out the exhaust.

~Try the other C-87 plugs & see what happens, but I have my doubts that they will make any long term difference.

~With what you said about the sputtering & missing I would be more inclined to think you have other ignition problems like a weak ignition or cross firing in the distributor cap.

~If you are fighting a weak ignition or other ignition problem it's possible a new set of spark plugs would cover the problem for a short time due to easier firing & the need for a lower KV when new.

~Probably the thing to do is start with the ignition wires & make sure they are metal core [NOT auto type TVRS resistor wires], then make sure the cap isn't carbon tracked & arcing between towers internally, then verify the rotor isn't carbon tracked or cracked & there is no arcing through the rotor & into the distributor shaft.

~If all OK there move on to the points & verify the gap is correct [Delco=.022" & Wico= .015"], it probably wouldn't hurt to try a new condenser just to eliminate that as a potential problem.

~Your 60 shouldn't have by-pass starting so it should have a 12 volt internally resisted coil [Delco system]. Is there any chance someone has installed a later externally resisted coil from a by-pass starting Deere? [are there any numbers on the coil?].... If you have the wrong coil [basically a 6 volt] on your 12 volt tractor it would start great but could act up as the coil gets hot after it runs a while. If it has a Wico mag or Wico distributor post back as it could have other problems.

~Where is your manifold heat valve set? You probably want it set to HOT for cold weather, when set to HOT that will increase the tendency to spark knock slightly but again it usually takes a pretty good load & just idling around isn't usually enough.

~Have you checked your ignition timing for being correctly set, you want about 5� base & about 20� BTDC advanced if a gasoline tractor. While checking the running timing verify the mechanical advance is operating smoothly as you advance the engine RPM.

~Just as a [see what happens], try closing the plug electrode gap to .025".. If that helps suspect an ignition problem as it takes a lower secondary KV to jump a .025" gap.

~Hopefully it's just a spark plug problem but I have my doubts it's that simple.....

Also, can you please check out my post (below) regarding the #200 cultivator. Is it true that there are different #200 cultivator frames between an A/B or 50/60?
I'm looking for a #200 that will bolt right up to my 60's rockshaft. If I start coming across them at farm sales, I'd like to know what dimensions I need to check to make sure what I buy isn't too short or narrow!
Any advice you might have is appreciated!

Al in Iowa

~That Deere AT-10399T coil should be the correct replacement coil for your tractor [if it hasn't been converted to by-pass starting at some time in the past]. That coil won't work correctly if you have a resistor in the wire from the ign switch to the coil...Make SURE the coil's + terminal is hooked to the wire going to the distributor when using that coil.

~I'm afraid I can't help you on the cultivator frame differences on that 200. I had an old 200 for my "B" that came with the tractor but I sold it years ago. Not sure it would have fit a 60 as the tractor frames are a little different. I'll look through some of my old books when I get a chance but not sure I have much info on that cultivator.....