Bush-Hog Blades

All guidance appreciated!
Tommy D.

I sprayed them down last Sunday with PB Blaster (after breaking the 3/4" drive socket AND pull handle with a 5' cheater pipe), then again Monday night. Last night, I set the hog on blocks and jackstands, still attached to the tractor. I sprayed and tapped with a hammer several times. Went to Sears & got a Craftsman 1 5/6" socket and 3/4" pull handle (almost $50!). Got home, sprayed again, and they came loose with the cheater bar. VERY tight!
I cleaned them up with a wire wheel and put them back on - good as new!

Thanks for all the help!!!
Tommy D.

The bolts that hold the blade on are regular threads, as posted below, abd Bush Hog sells, or used to sell, a special heavy duty socket to fit them that has a big square shaft that extends above the bed of the bush hog. You put a big adjustable wrench on the shaft and a pipe extension on that anh have at it. The bolt has a tapered shoulder with one ridge on it that fits into a groove in the blade carrier. It is possible to turn the bolt in the groove, probably ruining the SJ-blade carrier. Suggest you try a hammer on the blades to knock the rust loose and try running the hog as suggested in other post, CAREFULLY.

KEH

The nut on the shoulder bolt is standard thread on this Rhino SE-6, but a left hand thread, ( clockwise to remove if I recall, the parts details call for LH nut ). It is also nylon lined, kind of a thread locker, keeps it from backing off and loosening. If you do leave it on the 3 pt. to work on, I'd disconnect the P.T.O. and if it's a gas engine, why not pull the coil wire or disable the ignition, after seeing the results of what these things do to 1"-2" dia. brush, and all the other stuff I've taken down it's got my utmost respect.

I'm not sure if I've ever seen the stumpjumper option. Mine has a big round pan, with the flat plate across under it where the shoulder bolts attach, be curious to know what the "SJ" looks like and how it works.

By all means use care when working on it.

The central nut is very, very tight. I'd leave it alone if possible. Make sure the gearbox is full of oil and go mow some rocks. It's not a precision instrument, and it should loosen itself up pretty quickly.

the 2 blades pivot on 2 large bolts with huge flat mushroom heads, the nuts on these 2 huge bolts face upwards and line up with the hole you mentioned, these bolts are regular thread and you can buy some at TSC or a bushhog dealer if you want to check

I use a 3/4 drive socket and extension long enuf to reach up thru the hole, first time off I used a 4 foot cheater but had the unusual good sense to put some anti-seize on when I put it together

I suggest you hook up the power takeoff and go chop some good heavy brush, this might get the blades swinging like they need to