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Implement Alley Discussion Forum

Replacing the wood in a drag

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Crem

10-18-2005 18:55:04




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I have an old three section drag that I used on the farm back in the fifties when I was a teenager. The wood got bad about 20 years ago and I used some rough sawed oak to make new pieces. Well they are bad again and I would like to replace the wood because the drag really works well. Dad always said that the wood drags were the best. Does anyone know what type of wood was used in these drags and if it should be treated in some way. If I get it repaired, I will try to store it indoors.

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Leroy

10-20-2005 05:41:31




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-18-2005 18:55:04  
From what you are describing you have what is commonly called a spike tooth harrow and not a drag, a drag would be like taking several wide planks and fastening them with starting with the second one overlaping the first a couple of inches and repeation with each and to finnish off you would use a couple more of those planks foward and back to hold it together and also the front of these would be where you hooked a chain on to pull it and a drag has no teeth. Only a spike tooth harrow has teeth and if yours are like mine the tooth bars are 2 1/4" square and are hardwood, probably maple from the factory and you should start out with cured lumber and cut to size and before you drill for the teeth mark the location and then turned 90* drill 1/4" holes for bolts 1" to each side of the tooth hole and then put that 1/4" bolt in the hole to keep the bar from spliting when you drive the spikes in and if you use curred lumber you will not have to think about shrinking or warping of the bars. Remember to stager the teeth in each bar so they hit the ground at about every 1 1/2" and the teeth alternate in each bar and if you don't remember the correct pattern email me and I can give you the correct pattern as I have an IHC wood bar harrow with the orignal wood bars and I would start whenever you have the time as you will find out it will take 10 times the amount of time you think it will to do the job, I have done this a few times and modified the harrows as well by changing width or no. of bars and even mounted one on the back of the disc harrow that the disc carried when lifted. Leroy

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Crem

10-20-2005 18:28:33




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Leroy, 10-20-2005 05:41:31  
Thanks Leroy for all of the information. I can still get the location of the spikes from my old wood pieces. I like the idea of the 1/4' bolts on each side of the spike to keep the wood from splitting, but it would take a lot of bolts. I guess that calling it a drag is what I grew up with in MN. I just looked at a Ferguson manual and they also call it a spiked tooth harrow.I started using a drag back in the fifties with a Ford tractor as that was something that I could do at an early age if I didn't pull the drag over the rear fender by turning too short. I still have a Ferguson tractor that has dents in the fender from this very drag getting pulled into the fender by the back wheel while turning. It surprising that we even lived to tell about some of these things. Anyway I wonder what my reaction would have been if instead of my dad saying , drag that field, he would have said will you spike tooth harrow that field. :o))) I have another wooden harrow that is non adjustable and the spikes stand straight up. I always called that a harrow.

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Leroy

10-21-2005 16:30:31




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-20-2005 18:28:33  
The bolt idea was just a way of replacing the rivet that thet were orignaly made with and go to TSC or elseware that sells bolts by the pound and a pound may just be enough to do the job. Sounds like your harrow is an adjustable lever while the other is a fixed tooth harrow. I have several both wood and steel bars and also my favorite that is a pipe bar that is completely flexible, you roll it up to carry or storage and it will float over trash and the teeth are fixed in them but you pull it one direction for 45* angle and turn it around and pull from the opposite end for 90* but I never use it that way. At one time we had the Ferguson 3 point mounted 4 section with the outside fold up sections but it was sold 15-20 year ago.

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Crem

10-21-2005 21:39:01




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Leroy, 10-21-2005 16:30:31  
Because of this discussion I looked through the manual on the Ferguson three point spike tooth harrow. It looks like it has a lot of features the best one being able to raise the whole thing up to get rid of rocks and trash. That sure would save a lot of trips off and on the tractor, in fact I had to do that a few times today. It would also be handy in close quarters plus it couldn't be pulled over the fender accidently on corners. I bought one of these Ferguson harrows at an auction and I think that I will check out how complete it is.

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jossette

10-19-2005 19:26:29




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-18-2005 18:55:04  
I would try hickory and soak it in linseed oil over the winter and try it in the spring.



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Crem

10-19-2005 19:34:33




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to jossette, 10-19-2005 19:26:29  
Should I cut the hickory to size, soak it in linseed oil, and then in the spring drill it for the spikes?



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jossette

10-19-2005 19:46:01




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-19-2005 19:34:33  
Hickory doesnt shrink to much, but i would leave it a little long, if it gets cold one night or two so it expands and contracts. Sand it rough so it will soak good. Cut and drill in spring. If you feel up to it, repeat this ever other year and they will go still you stop.



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kyhayman

10-19-2005 13:22:11




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-18-2005 18:55:04  
I've got 2, 1 is 3 railroad ties with 2, 1/2 inch steel rods going through them, pc of slab steel on top and bottom where the rods are. Works great behind an 8' drag disc. For the lift disc I use a section of I beam.



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Crem

10-19-2005 16:54:44




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to kyhayman, 10-19-2005 13:22:11  
Kyhayman, the railroad tie drag that you have is really heavy duty and the wood in that should last almost forever. My drag is in three sections and both end sections can be folded towards the center to go through narrow gates etc. The reason that I want to repair this one is the wide width that it has, and because I can make adjustments from having the spikes straight up and vary to all the way flat for smoothing things. I am using it for landscaping a large area right now and the three sections will float individually when one area is slightly higher than the other.

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Bill in NorthCentral PA

10-19-2005 05:45:42




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-18-2005 18:55:04  
We use white oak for ours, flip it over to clean it off and used motor oil every couple of years. Ours is parked up on a stone row when done with it. Twenty years is about our limit too.

Bill



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BobMo

10-19-2005 04:55:14




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-18-2005 18:55:04  
Crem, when I was a kid my dad used clear pine, but now the only ones I see in this area are oak. There are advantages to oak because its heavier, tougher, and isn't subject to damage by critters.
Here in Missouri its also easy to get and much cheaper. Good luck however you go...



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Nebraska Cowman

10-19-2005 04:51:06




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-18-2005 18:55:04  
i never liked oak but would try ash or hickory



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steveormary

10-19-2005 09:30:00




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Nebraska Cowman, 10-19-2005 04:51:06  
How about osage.

steveormary



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Michael Soldan

10-19-2005 14:24:40




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to steveormary, 10-19-2005 09:30:00  
Steveormary, Osage is a good suggestion. I was not familiar with it until a few years ago when I noticed what looked like oranges on the highway under these trees. I did a little research and found that these trees are not native to my area of southern Ontario. I did find out that the wood is prized for its tough yellow fiber and ability to withstand over time. The Osage Indians used its limbs to make war clubs and bows..now did the Indians take the name of the tree or was the tree named after the Indian tribe???? Mike inExeter Ontario

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steveormary

10-19-2005 15:52:00




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Michael Soldan, 10-19-2005 14:24:40  
Michael Slodan

Dont know much about history. Teacher flunked me and I had to take it over my sr.year.

I do know the osage sure makes a buzz saw sing. And pulls the tractor down some too.

Steveormary



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Crem

10-19-2005 17:15:30




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to steveormary, 10-19-2005 15:52:00  
Can I find Osage around WI or MN? I am not familiar with it at all. My brother in law suggested Black Locust, and we have that around here.



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steveormary

10-19-2005 19:55:11




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-19-2005 17:15:30  
Crem

Dont know where all you might find osage. We had it on the farm in NE. It was used for fence posts long ago. We just used it some for firewood. Made a hot fire.

steveormary



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steveormary

10-19-2005 19:52:03




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 Re: Replacing the wood in a drag in reply to Crem, 10-19-2005 17:15:30  
Crem

Dont know where all you might find osage. We had it on the farm in NE. It was used for fence posts long ago. We just used it some for firewood. Made a hot fire.

steveormary



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